Northshore surf blog daily update

TODAY'S SURF REPORT

I have also started a surf blog for the Honolulu Advertiser which focuses on surf, but is not neccesarily a daily report like this one. It will be less frequent, but more comprehensive including surf events and issues. Check it out!!http://pipeline.honadvblogs.com/

Robin Johnson Underground Surf Flick Sat June 20th,2009
If you don't know Robin Johnson, you should. He is an accredited Pipe surfer and surfboard shaper here in Hawaii. Robin just finished his second film which features some great underground footage of himseld and his team riders in some epic waves. The premiere will be held on June 20th (Sat) at Jazz Minds starting at 8pm. In case you have never been to Jazz Minds, its a funky and comfy little joint with a great atmosphere, one of my favorite little night spots for sure. The event has a theme suggesting Cowboy or Indian attire and it should be a little great gathering for surfers to chill and talk story after a great week of surf. Sunday should be small waves anyways so come out and enjoy the fun.

Get Well Evyn
It was one of those mornings when the waves give you a lump in your throat. You see what the by-standers and non Pipe guys don't. The swell is coming up with a mix of West and NE wind swell, 30 mph gusts of wind going up the face and waves breaking 10 feet from shore. People are practically standing where you were surfing just 6 weeks ago. Its not that big, but noone ever seems to understand that the size of the waves at Pipe are not usually what gets us, its the way the waves move over the reef and that Thursday the waves and the bottom were moving all at once and in a few different directions. On top of all that surfers are over-earnst for anything they can get because of the recent lack of surf and undeniable end to the winter season.
Thursday night I was one of those over-earnst guys and there were a few of us. It wasn't too good at Pipe, but I had decided that if nothing else, I should paddle out and enjoy my one of my last days just being amongst some sizable surf. As I stood in the shoreline watching the current moving in a big circle I noticed a freak set with about 5 or 6 waves in it. It was pretty menancing looking and nobody was on any of the waves in that set, but I saw a recognizable board floating in. Standing in a whirpool of current, my initial thought was who would be out here without a leash today. Almost immediately, I see Satar running up the beach; asking is Evyn okay. I turned and looked back out to the green board and said, he's right there. At first, my thinking was that he was fine and was obviously tired from having to swim in to get the board, but in a split second we could all see that he was more than tired and at a second glance could see a shimmer of the injury with blood running down his face. Satar immediately jumped in the water to help Evan while I ran up the beach waving my board to get the attention of the lifeguards. Christian had also seen what was happending and paddled in from the lineup up to help Satar with Evyn. Next thing I knew the lifeguards were carrying him up the beach and before I could even get through the path to put my board in the car, I could already hear the ambulance. It was one of those horrific moments that you experience at Pipe over and over again, but when its one of our younger ones, its especially concerning. For some reason you always feel like they should be off-limits, but the Pipeline doesn't discriminate, young-old, male-female, shortboard-bodyboard, we all have seem to enjoy this game of rush and roulette with risk vs reward and in all reality its part of what drives us to surf spots like Pipeline. When Evyn was able to tell the doctors his parents phone number we all regained some hope that he would pull through. Christain then explained to me that Evyn had caught a smaller wave at Backdoor and then got caught that freak set I had been standing there in the whirlpool of water watching as I prepared to paddle out. Thinking back, it was quite miraculous that he was able to get back on the board at all after suffering a long hold down, a fractured skull and a broken eye socket, but at this point things are looking up since there is no bleeding or swelling in the brain and Evyn remain conscious talking, joking and happy to be alive. His mother Jane and the family are positive and hopeful. Evan is currently at Kaiser in Intensive Care and is expected to remain in the hospital for at least another week so he needs our thoughts, prayers and Aloha.
Evyn Tyndzik is a one of the young upcoming groms who is often compared to Ronnie Burns because he is one of those natural tuberider types who seems to be able to magically make waves barrell. He has already made his mark on some amazing waves at the big bowl and has been surfing some big Pipe and caught a nice wave at one of the few days we had at Waimea this year. He is usually out with Satar, another fearless grom with a bad case of the "I gotta get barreled bug" and his younger brother Kailon We are all pulling for him and hope to see him back in the tube soon. He is already missed in the lineup.
Evyn in the Advertiser at Waimea
Evyn in the finals at Kewalos- HASA
I was reminded that day, that while we seem to see people popping up wipeout after wipeout, we always have to keep our eyes pealed to things like floating boards without surfers and guys who may have been caught inside of a freak set. The lifeguards are there from 9-5, but its the surfers who have the best chance of saving someone because we can be there so much quicker and in situations like these every second counts. Props to Satar and Christian who were quick to action in such a critical moment!

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This just says it all about winter 09 now doesnt it. March 4,2009

early March 2009- Melanie Bartles accepts Most Improved award. Photo by Pake Salmon

Im not goin surf till later-i can tell from the cams its still junk and its cold
Sunday March 1,2009
Bigger- 6 ft north swell but still really bad upside- only one guy out poops
9:28 AM Feb 28th
A few guys going out Lanis but its pretty bad
9:34 AM Feb 27th
Still side-onshore but not as strong as yesterday.north swell 3-4 occ 5 ft-nobody out pretty junk
9:07 AM Feb 27th
It looks like the wind is slowing down & turning a little more east- swell is north 3-5 ft
7:26 PM Feb 26th
Onshore noone out 3-4 ft
9:02 AM Feb 26th
Doesnt look like its gonna clean up out here anytime soon. Still noone out.
11:21 AM Feb 25th
15. Nothing like what the buoys are showing. 4-6 ft, NNW swell and gusty side shore winds. Noone out yet. Pretty junk
8:39 AM Feb 25th
17. Turning north now -some good backdoors, not that many lefts already
9:45 AM Feb 24th
Yep contest on
8:48 AM Feb 24th
21. It got pretty decent last night, but now it looks kinda mixed up again. Maybe 6-8 on the sets. Still waiting on Contest?
8:39 AM Feb 24th
23. Turning trades right now and cleaning up. Still a lot of closeouts but there are a few good ones here and there.
5:18 PM Feb 23rd
25. Yep really mixed up and still slight onshore bump. 8-10 ft. Might get better if the NE swell dies and wind turns more offshore
9:39 AM Feb 23rd
Actually im starting to see a lot of north closeouts
8:36 AM Feb 23rd
29. Still dark but i saw some outer reef sets 10 or 12 ft i am sure the boogie event will be on -conditions look decent - mix of swells but ...
8:32 AM Feb 23rd
31. Cleaner today -still 2-3 occ 4 sandbars look decent-its doable but no great
9:26 AM Feb 22nd from txt
33. Both the wind and swell direction are more north. 2-3 or 4 ft and junk
9:12 AM Feb 21st from txt
Wow, they passed a bill to turn Bowls into a commercial boat harbor. Melissa is organizing a protest.
12:30 PM Feb 20th from txt
Small & junk again NNE wind and NNW swell 3 ft- jus 1 guy out Poops and 4 guys @ Otw
9:12 AM Feb 20th from txt
Jus 2-3 maybe occ 4 on the north spots-windy, choppy -pretty junk but still riddable
8:59 AM Feb 19th from txt
No contest but its really junk. Got real windy and pouring rain
10:21 AM Feb 18th from txt
Small already. 2-3 occ 4 medium trades. Dont know about contest yet
9:29 AM Feb 18th from txt
Seems like dropping- more like 6-8 now. The trades are still strong but more offshore-brrrrrrr cold
10:27 AM Feb 17th from txt
Contest is on. Looks a lil smaller than last night 8-10 ft but the waves are cleaner and more makeable. Pretty good
8:38 AM Feb 17th from txt
t now amongst the 50 boogies
10:55 PM Feb 16th from txt
up waves but if it cleans up, it coould be epic tomorrow. No doubt they will run the boogie contest tomorrow. I cant see one single surf ...
10:55 PM Feb 16th from txt
Man, it is really ragged right now but it is super west with 10-12 ft bombs coming through. The trades are gusty and there are 3 ft chop ...
10:55 PM Feb 16th from txt
About 3 ft but buoys r up and trades are not as gusty.
9:03 AM Feb 16th from txt
1-2 occ 3 wnw gusty trades
9:20 AM Feb 15th from txt
Small jus 1-2 ft or so- looks like east wrap- gusty trades
8:51 AM Feb 14th from txt
Small 1-3 gusty trades but not as windy as i expected
8:59 AM Feb 13th from txt
Dropping 2-4 havent seen any bigger ones but there might still be sets
8:54 AM Feb 12th
Had some bombs 8 maybe even 10 ft. SE winds offsho
10:30 AM Feb 11th from txt
4-6 ft clean and pretty west - looks a little more makeable than yesterday
8:41 AM Feb 11th from txt
It came up a bit 3-5 occ 6 but kinda weird and sectiony -theres a few good barrels
11:50 AM Feb 10th from txt
Still dark. Swell rising. looks like 2-4 occ 5 ft. Buoys r 6 ft. Clean WNW
8:41 AM Feb 10th from txt
1-3 ft clean
9:22 AM Feb 9th from txt
Dropping just 2-3 now and turning more north
4:03 PM Feb 8th from txt
Trades-Looks kinda small to me like 2-4 but Wade said he saw a 6 ftr so its probably bigger
8:41 AM Feb 8th from txt
Still dark but it looks like about 6-8 with occ 10, clean- swell is NW turning more North
8:37 AM Feb 7th from tx No contest but its really junk. Got real windy and pouring rain
10:21 AM Feb 18th from txt
Small already. 2-3 occ 4 medium trades. Dont know about contest yet
9:29 AM Feb 18th from txt
Seems like dropping- more like 6-8 now. The trades are still strong but more offshore-brrrrrrr cold
10:27 AM Feb 17th from txt
Contest is on. Looks a lil smaller than last night 8-10 ft but the waves are cleaner and more makeable. Pretty good
8:38 AM Feb 17th from txt
t now amongst the 50 boogies
10:55 PM Feb 16th from txt
11. up waves but if it cleans up, it coould be epic tomorrow. No doubt they will run the boogie contest tomorrow. I cant see one single surf ...
10:55 PM Feb 16th from txt
13. Man, it is really ragged right now but it is super west with 10-12 ft bombs coming through. The trades are gusty and there are 3 ft chop ...
10:55 PM Feb 16th from txt
1About 3 ft but buoys r up and trades are not as gusty.
9:03 AM Feb 16th from txt
. 1-2 occ 3 wnw gusty trades
9:20 AM Feb 15th from txt
Small jus 1-2 ft or so- looks like east wrap- gusty trades
8:51 AM Feb 14th from txt
Small 1-3 gusty trades but not as windy as i expected
8:59 AM Feb 13th from txt
Dropping 2-4 havent seen any bigger ones but there might still be sets
8:54 AM Feb 12th from txt
Had some bombs 8 maybe even 10 ft. SE winds offsho
10:30 AM Feb 11th from txt
4-6 ft clean and pretty west - looks a little more makeable than yesterday
8:41 AM Feb 11th from txt
. It came up a bit 3-5 occ 6 but kinda weird and sectiony -theres a few good barrels
. 11:50 AM Feb 10th from txt
Still dark. Swell rising. looks like 2-4 occ 5 ft. Buoys r 6 ft. Clean WNW
8:41 AM Feb 10th from txt
33. 1-3 ft clean
9:22 AM Feb 9th from txt
Dropping just 2-3 now and turning more north
34:03 PM Feb 8th from txt
Trades-Looks kinda small to me like 2-4 but Wade said he saw a 6 ftr so its probably bigger
8:41 AM Feb 8th from txt
Still dark but it looks like about 6-8 with occ 10, clean- swell is NW turning more North
8:37 AM Feb 7th from txt

The horn just blew to start the contest and a 12 ft wash through bomb started the 1st heat but its mostly 6-8 occ 10. Perfect condition ...
10:26 AM Feb 6th from txt
Havent seen any bombers yet but im sure theyre comin -im gonna try paddle out before the contest so ill text when i come in
8:33 AM Feb 6th from txt
The west is starting to fill in 4 ft but that sandbar in front Pipe is really long & dry. Ugh
7:24 PM Feb 5th from txt
NE swell 2-4 w some freak 5 or 6 ftrs outside poops- gusty trades
9:26 AM Feb 5th from txt
2-4 maybe occ bigger Gusty trades but offshore & cleaner than yesterday
9:12 AM Feb 4th from txt
North swell 2-4 ft maybe bigger on the north spots -sideshore gusty trades
. 9:06 AM Feb 3rd from txt
Its about 2-4 now and still pretty junk but a little cleaner than the am
5:46 PM Feb 2nd from txt
Buoys r up but so are NE winds. Waves r still small 1-2 occ 3 jus starting to come up
9:02 AM Feb 2nd from txt
About 1 ft occ 2 on the sanbar too bad its so small, beautiful conditions
9:09 AM Feb 1st from txt
About the same again 1-2 occ 3 & clean mostly sandbar action
11:26 AM Jan 31st from txt
About the same as yesterday. Maybe a lil smaller. 1-3 ft NE swell & clean
9:12 AM Jan 30th from txt
Small 2-3 ft real north nice and clean. Sandbars r shuting down a lot but maybe later
9:34 AM Jan 29th from txt
Dropping from earlier, but still mixed up. Sandbars have potential when the swell drops.
4:04 PM Jan 28th from txt
Lanis is junk too
10:06 AM Jan 28th from txt
. Looks pretty North 4-6 @ poops and freak 8 or 10 ftrs @ Rockpiles intervals are too close together semi-clean faces
30. 9:04 AM Jan 28th from txt
31. West wind so onshore 2-4 occ 5 NNW swell

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32. 9:01 AM Jan 27th from txt
33. Still 2-3 ft might be an occ 4 and clean
34. 8:51 AM Jan 26th from txt
35. Looks like 3-5 ft maybe occ 6 & clean NW its still dark though so i might be a little off
36. 8:45 AM Jan 25th from txt
4-6 occ 8 clean conditions but Pipe is kinda warbly and weird. The berm is gone but now there is a sandbar runnin thru it - my friend sa ...
8:52 AM Jan 24th from txt
yesterday
8:52 AM Jan 24th from txt

Trying to come up but just all weird and going over the top of itself
4:12 PM Jan 23rd from txt
2-3 maybe occ bigger but still mixed up and side sde shore. Buoys r up for this afernoon
8:55 AM Jan 23rd from txt
Still solid 6-8 ft maybe bigger but still all mixed up and all over not good
8:57 AM Jan 22nd from txt
Still washed out pipe. Waimea doesnt seem that big but after watching 8 guys (literally) take off on a 10 or 12 footer, i left
1:08 PM Jan 21st from txt
Pipe is definitely a no go right now. There are a few guys out Waimea & a few waves but still onshore & disorganized
10. 9:29 AM Jan 21st from txt
Looks like about 12 to 15+ -its close together and kindof all over again but the wind is trying to turn trades
8:49 AM Jan 21st from txt
Wow Proud American! Just about 2-3 ft @ north spots SW wind is already on it its junk-the storm is here
10:25 AM Jan 20th from txt
Watching history this am -will check the surf after inaguration
8:36 AM Jan 20th from txt
Some 10 ftrs@rockpile -jus a few boogies trying to surf Pipe which is kinda jus a big rip
9:28 AM Jan 19th from txt
Hard to even tell how big it is because its so all over the place but still atleast 6 ft on the sets w clean faces plenty N in the swell
8:54 AM Jan 19th from txt
About 10 boogies & 2 surfers out but still terrible
5:29 PM Jan 18th from txt
Still nobody out Pipe 5 guys out small Waimea -the wind is back into already -terrible
12:22 PM Jan 18th from txt
Its more like a few different swells that are too close together- its just all over the place noone out Pipe or even hangin around here- ...
9:25 AM Jan 18th from txt
27. check again after church
9:25 AM Jan 18th from txt
Still 12ft+ and pretty unruly. The wind is light onshore but the swell is too close togther
8:54 AM Jan 18th from txt
Noway.
9:08 AM Jan 17th from txt
still got waves on the outer reefs VIctory at Sea ! Unriddable
12:09 PM Jan 16th from txt
My husband said nobody out Waimea either. Pretty bad, and I guess not that big at the Bay
10:01 AM Jan 15th from txt
Forget about Pipe - might go see if any nutz went paddle out windblown waimea
8:59 AM Jan 15th from txt
I cant see the waves yet but the wind is strong already here. Will text back when i have a good look
8:39 AM Jan 15th from txt
Wasnt as big as expected tonight mainly 12-15 ft but i did see one 18-20 ft bomb come through Pipe right before dark SW wind was chewing
11:30 PM Jan 14th from txt
but if it werent for that Pipe was so west and long interval that it would have been riddable with a few wash thru sets there is a chanc ...
11:30 PM Jan 14th from txt
ood if the wind doesnt get stronger overnight
11:30 PM Jan 14th from txt
2-4 ftvnow too close together and SW crumble jus like the last swell
12:10 PM Jan 14th from txt
Nothing yet maybe 1-2 light SW winds alreay
8:46 AM Jan 14th from txt
Never mind the 6 ftrs already jus 2-3 occ 4 the sanbars are on- water is dirty again
11:14 AM Jan 13th from txt
Dropping more north kinda missing Pipe but looks solid 6 ft still @ the north spots its more organized today with clean faces
9:03 AM Jan 13th from txt
Nice evening glass off the swell is turning more north -still some solid sets
8:03 PM Jan 12th from txt
out and Dino is getting all the bombs
11:00 AM Jan 12th from txt
Shot up w the sunrise solid 6-8 now w 10 ft foamys slight SW wind is making it kinda crumbly and its still close together and washy but ...
11:00 AM Jan 12th from txt
4-6 maybe 8 Clean faces but real close together swell so its kinda mixed up and all over the place
9:01 AM Jan 12th from txt
SW-W wind already as soon as the sun came up JUNK
9:52 AM Jan 11th from txt
Still dark but it looks pretty small like about 1-3 still clean buoys r comin up
8:53 AM Jan 11th from txt
Slight crumble w the seabreezez but clean faces still about 3 ft
5:43 PM Jan 10th from txt
Still dark but i think its about 3 ft poss bigger sets -clean similar to yesterday am lil bigger
8:46 AM Jan 10th from txt
It came up a little right before dark inconsistent but had some 4 ft sets and glass off after soft midday seabreezes
10:27 PM Jan 9th from txt
Pretty small 1-2 maybe 3 SE wind beautiful
8:47 AM Jan 9th from txt
Dropping about 3 ft with some inconsistent 4 ft sets Trades but cleaner than yesterday and the swell is turning more NW
8:52 AM Jan 8th from txt
Cleaner than the morning but still shifty and warbly at pipe inconsistent but the sets are still 5 ft havent seen any bigger ones yet
2:35 PM Jan 7th from txt
I guess they cancelled the contest im going back to check it now
1:59 PM Jan 7th from txt

More solid 4-6 now was real bumpy earlier now its smoothing out the shootout is on @ 9 am
10:55 AM Jan 7th from txt
3. 2 - 4 occ 5 even 6 ft trades w some surface chop same direction as the last couple swells WNW to NW
8:58 AM Jan 7th from txt
It came up tonight but not that much maybe 4 ft on the set but u have to wait long conditions are epic WNW to NW swell
9:58 PM Jan 6th from txt
1 ft maybe 2 the wind died plenty
8:58 AM Jan 6th from txt
Smaller but still solid 3 or 4 ft on the sets not as windy as yesterday NW
8:48 AM Jan 5th from txt
Still dark but doesnt look as big as the buoys yet 4 or 5 ft strong trades pipe is still pretty warbly but somewhere should be good wnw ...
12. 8:56 AM Jan 4th from txt
13. Flat -1 ft maybe 2 trades
14. 8:53 AM Jan 3rd from txt
15. Dropped about 3 ft pretty clean more north
16. 9:11 AM Jan 2nd from txt
Not as warbly and weird as this am but not as much size either its dropping but the sun is out & it is so nice for a change
12:23 PM Jan 1st from txt
Happy new year! 2-4 looks like dropping but might still have some sets super clean
9:01 AM Jan 1st from txt
Wow still kinda junk theres waves but all full and fat at pipe backwash crowd ugh se winds w a lil crumble but still clean i heard rocky ...
2:05 PM Dec 31st, 2008 from txt
23. good ones
2:05 PM Dec 31st, 2008 from txt
The west is starting to show but comin up slow some 3 ft plus if u wait looks pretty WNW
2:56 PM Dec 30th, 2008 from txt
Some 2 or 3 ftrs now but seems like trade wrap not the west yet
11:40 AM Dec 30th, 2008 from txt
Buoys r up but its still flat here maybe 1 ft clean will text again in a couple hours
9:05 AM Dec 30th, 2008 from txt
Flat to maybe 1 ft if u wait long time
2:53 PM Dec 29th, 2008 from txt
About 1 ft nothing at pipe or off the wall just poops & lanis
4:08 PM Dec 28th, 2008 from txt
About 1 to 2 riddable but pretty weak
2:47 PM Dec 27th, 2008 from txt
Looks manini on the cams we got power back but it poured hard all night & still thunder ill check it later but i probably wont text agai ...
9:27 AM Dec 27th, 2008 from txt
39. ess its worthy
9:27 AM Dec 27th, 2008 from txt

A little more consistent than am NE swell lumpy bumpy
6:50 PM Dec 26th, 2008 from txt
3. Clean conditions though
9:41 AM Dec 26th, 2008 from txt
Rainy yucky & small here's a mushy 3 ftr at poops looks like nothing comin till ties so I'll be testing a oil later while it's small
9:38 AM Dec 26th, 2008 from txt
7. Merry Christmas! The king is born. The waves got a little bigger yes afternoon but it dropped too north for pipe which is just 2 ft poop ...
9:10 AM Dec 25th, 2008 from txt
be bigger strong trades again
9:10 AM Dec 25th, 2008 from txt
11. A little bigger maybe 6 ft at off the wall and cleaner than am but still kinda broken up heard rockys is pretty decent
3:14 PM Dec 24th, 2008 from txt
13. Looks like 3 to 4 might be bigger ones buoys still comin up strong trades plenty people here already
8:51 AM Dec 24th, 2008 from txt
15. Flat to 1 dr
11:00 AM Dec 23rd, 2008 from txt

Nov 27,2008 Thurs. Happy Thanksgiving
just a tad bigger than yesterday. clean, but kinda junky and packed. about 2-3 occ 4.

Nov 26 2008 Wednesday
just about 1-3 feet this morning. clean and all the kids are having fun. buoys are up

Nov 24,2008 Monday
sorry my computer has been crashing a lot making it a bit hard to keep updates going. basically it hasnt been too good since the 14th. Just a couple stormy days with smaller days in between. It was straight onshore a couple days ago when they held the REEF Hawaiian Pro at Haleiwa but the winds switched midday making for some nice conditions and 2-4 ft waves for the final. Yesterday was dropping all day and today was only breaking at the north spots like Lanis. Upside had super wind gusts and small surf.

Nov 14 2008 9:20am
it dropped a lot already. mostly 3-5 ft. maybe a couple sets. still perfect conditions right now. Pipe is packed. mens contest is on at Haleiwa and women might start at noon

Nov 13,2008 3pm
the waves were beautiful this morning. solid 6-8 with some 10 footers early then around 8am-10am some waves coming through the second reef, then it really started dropping back around 11 and was more like 6-8 when i left. the wind started to turn onshore but then it backed off and got real nice again. its WNW with a mix of NW which is making some sets really good and then other sets just close out

Nov 12,2008 8:30am
real small this morning. about 1 ft. super clean and clear

Nov 9,2008 Sunday 9am
slowly rising. just about 2-3 occ 4 this morning but really warbly at Pipe with a lot of backwash and more north in the swell than the last one

Nov8, 2008
dropped from yesterday 2-3 occ 4 ft but really fun. clean in the morning but really windy by the afternoon

Nov 7, 2008
about the same as yesterday but dropping. Pipe was better today, less backwash and warble in the wave. It actually got pretty good last night and a few of the boyz were out getting some nice tubes.

Nov 6,2008
yay. west swell today about 2-4 occ 5+ft. beautiful perfect day with no wind this morning. Light trades are trickling in now. Pipe was real backwashy and warbly early but you could see the reef and all the fish with that turquoise blue water color. I heard Rockys was the spot and Im sure V-Land was good too

Oct 30,2008
still really junky and mixed up this morning dont think it got much better throughout the day. right of the lifeguard tower at Ehukai had a few waves, it was about 2-4. Lanis had som long rides in the mush

Oct 29,2008 Wednesday pm
not so good today. kept checking it and went all around and it was pretty mixed up everywhere. It was probably the best at Sunset where they were having the contest. still some 8 footers early but dropping back and turning more to the NE by noon.

Oct 28,2008 Tues pm
jumbled up surf this morning from the North and west with clean conditions and wave faces. Pipe was about 6-8 but at couple 2nd reefs broke outside early am and then it just turned more north and they were all passing by Pipe. Condtions worsened throughout the day and it was pretty junk by 10am. it seemed like it was dropping tonight but they claim it will be bigger tomorrow out of the NE

Oct 27 monday pm
beautiful day about 1-3 ft picking up this evening with some 5 ft sets. really clean conditions pretty much all day. NW swell

Oct 26,2008 11am
2-3 occ 4 ft real clean today and fun NW so backdoor had a few

Oct 25 Saturday
a 4-6 ft northwest swell was coming in over the top of yesterdays small north. it was junky choppy and really mixed up. not too good anywhere but plenty guys practicing for the contest at Sunset

Oct 23 2008
came up in the country today. was about 2-4 maybe a bigger one in the north locations. kinda windy and a little stormy but lanis looked the best with some really long rides

Oct 18,2008
they were calling it 4 ft in town on Friday when it was barely three and really slow and windy an kinda junk. Saturday I got up a 4:30 and drove to town to surf for one hour before the contest and they started the contest at 7am. The sun isnt even up until 6:30am this time of year and they are starting an event at 7am. They have done that several times in the overload of contests at bowls this year. Time to take action and start putting some restrictions on these contest guys, thats all I can say. I will make sure to hunt you all down when I get all the details sorted out and write a petition. The 2-4 ft swell never came except for a 2 ft wave I saw at Pipe after the sun went down last night. XCEL starts in just one week. agh

Oct 14,2008 Tues sundown
waves started surging back up out of the north last night and peaked at 6-8 ft again this morning. kinda too north for Pipe but poops was working and Lanis was pretty good. not really connecting from the outside but there were like three peaks. the outside peak, main peak and inside peak, all of them looked pretty fun on their own with good conditions until about 2pm when it came onshore and got kinda junky. i dont know if it glassed off in the evening or not but it definitely had that look about it

Oct 13,2008 10am
there were still a couple 8 ft bombs early this morning but by about 8:30am it seemed like it was starting to drop back a lot to just about 3-5. Pipe was kinda warbly and too north but not that bad for the first day. Sunset looked kinda fun kine.

Oct 12,2008 Sunday 8:20amAM
no surf yet. 1-2 ft at off the wall-choke backwash but the buoys are up 6-17, going by the cam looks like town is the spot, maybe some 3 ft waves

Oct 5,2008
the north swell conitnued with some little waves until yesterday and south shores had a couple 4 footers yesterday and Friday and is holding steady today, just a tad smaller. the swell was a little bit windy in town but pretty fun

Oct 1, 2008
it started out a little bit bigger and stormier this morning but started to clean up and drop by 10am. Lanis was kindof a mush bit again. a little smaller than yesterday but a little cleaner. my friend said yesterday was fun when he surfed it of course, hes a longboarder. go figure

Sept 29th 2008 Tuesday 9am
weve got some waves this morning. It was about 3 ft solid this morning upside but it has a lot of north so Lanis and north spots might be better. Pupukea wasnt much bigger than Pipe but I did see some whitewaters breaking more outside on that east angle reef. The waves were pretty jumbled up and disorganized, V-land and Pipe were pretty poopy and my friends who checked Lanis said it was kinda lame but maybe later this afternoon it will get a little more focused on the direction and clean up and maybe even get a little bigger

Sept 28th
had a small swell for 2 days in the country but mainly just about 2 feet with an occ 3 footer at more N facing spots. nice conditions. yesterday had a little boost in town 1-2 and today looks a little bigger on the cam but just something to paddle around in. Today is flat in the country but looks like we will get a little something on Tuesday

Sept 19,2008
Waves came back up yesterday but it was smaller and more north than the past swell. Yesterday had a little too much west for Lanis but it was about 2-3 occ 4 and pretty consistent. Today is more north and breaking a little better at Lanis but it is real rolly poly. Upside is not getting the swell as good so its kinda small

Sept 15,2008
first hint of winter came in last night. 2-3 ft waves. V-land was as packed as it gets. was about the same this morning but a little more consistent

Sept 13,2008
went to town today and an unexpected unpredicted little 1-3 foot swell was running. super fun with a little bit of an onshore breeze and just a few of us out.

Lester's Paddle Out Service Friday Sept 12 @ 6am
Lester Falatea Pipeline

Aloha '0e
I am writing to get the word out that our friend Lester Falatea aka "Pipeline Lester" died last week. It seems strange that someone so fit who has been charging huge waves for so long could die of a heart attack at just 37 yrs old just walking down the street, but anyone who knew Lester knew that he had a big heart which certainly worked overtime bringing joy to all of us. Services were held yesterday at the Laie Mormon church. It was beautiful and a testament to all the many many people Lester touched in his life. One of his friends spoke and commented that Lester's calling in life was to make people laugh and he sure fulfilled it. He had recently been asked into the preisthood and although I am a Christain, I have no doubt that Lester's goodness came from God.
In case your still wondering who Les or Lester is. He was a big Tongan or Samoan (i forgot which) guy who rode huge waves on his longboard, one of the few guys to attempt huge Pipe on a Longboard and also frequented Waimea and all around the Northshore. He used to ride Bowls too in the summer but hasnt really surfed there since the sewage spill. He worked for Hawaiian Airlines and would even bring a cel phone in a plastic ziploc bag out to Pipe sometimes in case he got called in to work. I used to paddle out to Pipe with Lester sometimes because I was so small the waves would wash me in and his board was so big the waves would wash him in. We would laugh so hard sometimes when we wouldnt make it out- sometimes we would try again and sometimes we would call it a day. Lester treated the women in the line up with such respect and would make sure we got a wave. Its going to be a real bummer surfing Pipeline without him but I know he will watching over us from above just as much as he did here on earth. I hope each of us who knew him will try to be a little more like Lester.
There will be a paddle out memorial for Lester at Pipeline on Friday Sept 12 at 6am. Please come and join us!!!!!

Sept 11, 2008
wow. fun south surf. it started late Thursday Sept 4th and lasted all the way until today when there are still a couple 2 of 3 footers. The best days were Friday and Saturday. There were a couple 6 footers here and there and one wave Ronnie Boy caught was the biggest of the whole summer pushing 8 ft. He caught it right by the buoy. The swell was biggest and most consistent Saturday and but sitll had some 5 footers Sunday and 4 ft through Thurs.Conditions were a bit warbly and choppy in the mornings of the biggest days but the smaller days had perfect clean conditions and no wind. It was a solid week of south surf and it looks like we may get something for North shore Monday bigger than what weve been getting
Ala Moana Bowls Sept 6,2008 Photo: Danny Black

August 24,2008
its getting that time for me to start bloggin again. when i left for my trip in july the waves got epic for the Macys Pro on July15, 16, and 17. it was about 3-4 with some 5 ft sets in the big bowl. then the swells died down a bit but there were still some waves. the day i came back on the 28 the surf was up to 3-4 ft again and perfect middles which lasted a couple days and there has been just one decent swell since then which was about 3 ft. the last three days was suppose to have some solid surf on the south shore but it was just 2 ft average with a couple sets. the northshore had a fun swell in the 3 ft range which was kind of unexpected and the biggest weve had in a long time. it was rolly polly type wind swell but decent compared to what weve had. im back on the blog- stay tuned

Fun Summer Pics by Tony Agao

Tony Agao and I have been on the Obama Ohana support campaign this past year. We saw each other campaigning for him at he headquarters in Ward Center then again at the rally and then again at KCC when he watched him that historic speech accepting the democratic nomination. As you can see Obama is in the big bowl on my surfboard! I cant wait to see him become the first surfing president!

Here is Ben Aipa on his Birthday 2008. I forgot how old he is but when he surfs his snaps still look like a 25 years old.

July 13, 2008
middle of July and we still got some fun little waves coming. yesterday and today was about 2-3 ft with another small swell expected through the middle of the week and another swell predicted for the 20th. im going to the mainalnd and will be back on the 28ths so hopefully August will start kicking up some more swells

July 4th,2008
wow packed down Ala Moana this morning. the line up was crowded but the parking more crowded. even by 6am i had to park in the metered parking and people were like vulutres to every surfer who came in the surf has been consistent in the 2-3 foot range all week with an occ 4 foot set. conditions have been perfect- the waves have been so much fun. even country had some 1-2 footers all week and one or two days reached three feet

June 28,2008
yesterday was 2-3 occ 4 ft again. there was one wave in the big bowl but that was it. really good from the middle with some sea breezes midday. the cam looks like it dropped a tad today but there are still some good ones

June 25 Wednesday
surf came back up today 2-3 and a couple 4s here and there. was perfect from the middles and clean conditions

June 20,2008
small kine already 1-3 country's been getting a little dribble here and there on the tide serges.

June 19,2008
the surf dropped quite a bit today but super rippable from the middle at bowls and still an occ 4 ft wave

June 18, 2008
funny thing man. told all the guys there is always a good swell on June 18th of course we figured we had already had it. NOAA predicted 2-4 ft faces this morning and instead it was 3-5 ft backs with one 6 ft set early am. couldnt believe it. just 7 guys in the big bowl and 1 guys in the middle for a couple of hours.wow

June 17,2008
i cant believe there were still some freak 5 footers this morning. wow. this swell is endless and still looks like there are some decent waves on the cam. it definitely slowed down from yesterday though and the wind came on both days around 9:30am

June 16,2008
Waves actually went down and were really inconsistent on Sunday but had a little more size again with a lot more consistency on Monday. Mainly 4 feet but a couple 5 footers in the big bowl

June 17,2008 Spike Photo www.leadingedgephotos.com

June 14,2008
Waves only took a day of rest and came back up a tad on Wednesday. Thursday had some 4 footers by midday but with onshore winds. Friday June 13, had some solid 5 footers in the bowl but not as big as the last swell. When the tide came up mid morning the direction was just perfect for some screamers from the middle which guys were riding all the way through the bowl; sets that would normally close out from the middle at that size. Saturday the 15th still had some 4 footers in the bowl early morning and late evening but mainly it was solid 3-4 feet from the middle check it out some pics on Honolulu Advertiser web page

June 9,2008
surfs been pretty great. On Saturday June 7 morning i pulled into the bowls parking lot about 6am and there was a solid 6 ft set. after that I only saw 1 or 2 more like that throughout the day but there were some 5 ft pits that were just funneling through the bowl. Sunday was dropping already by the morning, but there were still a couple sets in the big bowl until about 2pm when it kinda turned off and got real windy. Today looks like there are still some fun waves in the middle. Mike Akima's daughter graduated from highschool and they had a killer party last night at Pipeline with Kapena. He has such a nice family and its so refreshing to see such good people getting so blessed in life!

June 6,2008
towns been pretty fun for the last few days. the swell came Tues and everyone in the world was on it. it dropped back just a notch yesterday and was the biggest so far today. it was about 2-3 occ 4 just starting to foam in the big bowl. The little buggas have been scoring for the state championships

May 27,2008
haven't been on it lately because I am doing two other blogs. Weve had some fun waves worth talking about though last week. The country had waves for about a week; one day was 6 ft on the sets but mainly it was 1-4 ft for about 4-5 days then the south shore was about 2-3 occ 4 for most of last week even though it was onshore. The Local Motion went off this past weekend and the states will kick off soon

May 5,2008 Monday
the swell ended up being real small in the country just about 1-2 occ 3 and kinda NNW again. town is about the same size i heard

May 2,2008
yesterday still had some 4 footers every once in a while in town but today was barely 3 ft.

April 30,2008
we were all kinda dissapointed by the swell and the fact that the last swell seemed to better but there were some fun ones. the whole world was on it. Mike Akima, Ronnie Boy, Dewayne, all the regulars plus Kala, Kekoa Cazemero, Kahea, Jason Mags and list goes on. we all had fun in the 3-5 footers

April 29,2008
most of us were kinda bummed when we saw the surf this morning after looking at those shots from Tahiti but the map definitley looks like it will throw a little more juice at us tomorrow. it was 2-4 ft today with a ver y occasional set, sometimes we had to wait over 30 minutes maybe even 45 minutes

April 28,2008
waves are head high in town but nothing significant yet and northshores are small.

LOCAL NEWS & EVENTS:

>More Hearings For Bowls Parking. We haven't lost the battle yet! Please Participate!!
Jefferson Elementary School cafeteria, 324 Kapahulu Avenue, Honolulu, from 6 to 8 p.m.
First Meeting: Wednesday, April 9, 2008;
Second Meeting: Wednesday, April 16, 2008;
Third Meeting: Wednesday, April 30, 2008.

>RIP B-Boy Frosty Freeze!!! April 3, 2008-One of the Original B-Boys in Flashdance know for his innovative moves and styles

>Jan 27, 2008 Sunday Northshore community gets caught inside on a huge set of no parking signs taking more than half of the roadside parking stalls on the Northshore (more commentary below on Jan 27)
KGMB 9 News: http://kgmb9.com/main/content/view/3620/40/
FOX 2 News: http://www.khon2.com/news/local/14474352.html to make a complaint to the Dept of Transportation about the new no parking signs
email: dotpao@hawaii.gov
phone: 587-2160

>Check out Sean Davey's photos of the Backdoor Shootout on Surfline Day 1 (15 sec to load)
>Check out Sean Davey's photos of the Backdoor Shootout on Surfline Day 2 (15 sec to load)

Jeannie Chesser is fighting Merkel Cel Cancer. read an article on this.Those who want to make a donation; send it here: Da Friends of Jeannie Chesser: First Hawaiian Bank, 1348 Hunakai St. Honolulu, HI 96816

April 25,2008 Friday
surf came up a little more late last night and this morning. there were a few 5 footers at poops but everywhere was a little weird with the NNW direction. nice clean condions again

April 24,2008 Thursday
surf is comming up today. it started out nearly flat and then some 3 ft sets started coming in. off the wall was bigger than Pipe. perfect am conditions

April 22,2008 Tues
sorry havent been blogging here lately but ill update you all. 2 weeks ago we had a long series of NE swell if you like broken up style Lanis. some people said it was going off others thought like me, it was just okay. gums was actually pretty decent a couple days but mainly you had to catch it at the right time inbetween real windy spells. town was good, got up to 5 ft and there were a few good tubes at the big bowl. that swell lasted three days with April 18 being the biggest. All the shooters were there that morning so you can go check it out. Then right when that died off we got another weird NE country swell but that one only lasted a day with 5 ft waves and was 2 ft by yesterday today is just a foot

April 9,2007 Wednesday
the surf came up a little last night and its about 2-3 today. it was real washy and disorganized this morning but it seemed to be cleaning up around midday

April 8, 2008 Tuesday
Yesterday started dropping and was still onshore. Today cleaned up but got small, about 1-2 occ 3 and still kinda mixed up storm surf even thought the wind turned to ESE. Looks like this is it for a little while

April 6, 2008 Sunday
got a little bigger- some occ 8 ft sets late last night and early this morning but the surf is shot. its terrible. 4 boogies paddled out this morning at Pipe which still had a crossed up swell with a ton of chop going through the wave and some back was to stop it all off. the wind seems to being blasting through Pipe and that area the most. Even Haleiwa was a mess, but V-Land, Sunset and Pinballs seemed to have a little big of protection from the wind

April 4, 2008 Friday 8:22am
man what a bummer the NW and the NE swells came at the same time making for a big mess of 2-4 ft with some 5 footers. maybe it will get better later

April 3,2008 Thursday
Man it has been terrible the last couple days. yuck. today is back to being more northerly winds again and the swell is NE with hardly in west in it. If your bored you can check out CNN, there is a really cool special on Martin Luther King who was assasignated 40 years ago today.

April 2, 2008 Wednesday
this morning the surf was shot out here. side - onshore wind and just about 2-3 ft. terrible. I had to do some things in town yesterday and was surprized with some fun 3 ft waves with pretty decent conditions even though it was pretty gusty

April 1,2008
the surf came up last night and was 1-3. i saw a couple 5 foot sets before I paddled out this morning but once I got out there it did not seem like there were any more of those. It was really bumby choppy and backwashy so pretty junk. I think everywhere was like that.

March 24,2008 Monday
1-2 ft North strong trades

March 23,2008
Happy Easter!! He is Risen!!
Surfs been real small the last few days just flat to a foot or so. Today is not even ridable, but really beautiful here on the Northshore. This is the time of year where I stop blogging everyday and just blog when there is a swell since I dont want to have to write that it is flat every day. I just started a blog for the Honolulu Advertiser so you can go there for more elaborate reports and surf news.

March 20,2008 Thursday
1-2 ft today and windy

March 19, 2008 Wednesday
2-3 windy

March 18,2008 Tuesday
there was a little surge in the morning 4-6 occ 8 with a couple waves bigger than yesterday , but it dropped really quick and was just 3-4 ft by the evening

March 17, 2008 Monday
4-6 with a couple bigger ones, dropped from yesterday afternoon

March 16,2008 Sunday
started out 3-5 with a couple 6 footers, a lot of backwash and shifty and rose to 4-6 with some occ solid sets in the 8 or 10 foot range. Bodyboarder Joshua Kalai Nakata passed away today. It was said that he got caught inside on one of the freak sets and did not resurface until 15 minutes later without his board. Ironically, I had mentioned early that morning that we had not lost anyone at Pipe this year and thought the large number of injuries may have paid for a life. It is always so sad to lose someone out there, especially someone so young but at the same time we are comforted that he died doing what he loved. To be honest I have only seen a couple quick clips on the news and and still unsure about who it was so Ill keep you all posted on more info. R..I.P. Joshua

March 15, Saturday
small kine. nothing really at Pipe. Poops has a fun little barrelling sandbar about 2 ft

March 14,2008 Friday
1-3 this morning. still turning around to the north. Pupukea had a few bigger ones than Pipe I think and the sandbars looked like they might have potential later on

March 13,2008 Thursday
just a couple guys paddled out this morning. There were a couple 10 ft sets early but mostly 4-6, a lot of north and kinda funky- by 10am a small crew paddled out and it was kinda fun. the bigger waves were passing by Pipe was kinda breaking more on the end

March 12, 2008 Wednesday
only 4 boogies and Dino out at Pipe kinda jumbled up with a little too much north and some 15 ft sets throughout the day. Waimea was fun kine

March 11,2008 Tuesday
beautiful conditions again this morning with trades back by midday. the waves started out looking real small at daybreak then a couple serges of 5 ft waves came in and then it got kinda fat and backed off throughout the middle of the day. buoys are up

March 10, 2008 Monday
super fun kine again this morning. 1-3 ft with a couple 4's. clean and perfect conditions

March 9,2008 Sunday
1-3 and a couple bigger ones clean am and fun. light seabreeze midday and early evening

March 8,2008 Saturday
what an incredible day. fun 3-4 ft this morning with a couple 5's. good backdoor the last couple days. this afternoon we celebrated the life of a fellow most known as "Big Bob" or Hawaiian Bob. It was a beautiful service and paddle out. conditions as good as it gets. We all held hands in a huge hanai circle of long time friends who knew him and the keikis who will hopefully carry his spirit into the future. we watched beautful 2-3 ft waves breaking in the background at Pipe with conditions which were as good as it gets just before riding one in to appreciate an unreal Sunset. Aloha Bob!! You will be truely missed, but your spirit will live on in all of us!!!

March 7,2008 Friday
clean and fun 3-5 with a few 6 ft bombs this morning with epic conditions, dropping midday with a little bit of wind in the face but hardly anyone out

March 6,2008 Thursday
wow. the waves have been perfect for the last 4 days. more epic Pipe like a dream. Yesterday and today were about 4-6 occ bigger every once in a while. really west and so perfect conditions. its been so good and all for the locals

March 2,2008 Sunday
flat-1 ft today. pretty

March 1,2008 Saturday
super fun and clean this morning. 3-5 occ 6 early am then it started really dropping off by 9 and was 2-4 by the afternoon.

Feb 29,2008 Friday
kinda small and shifty this morning, but then it came up a notch mid morning and looked really nice with some killer waves. 3-5 occ 6 early am then 4-6 occ 8 by midday

Feb 28, 2008 Thursday
beautiful waves at Pipe again this morning in the 6-10 ft range. the swell is pretty west and there are some thick ones

Feb 27,2008
the swell dropped a lot this morning. i didnt watch that long but it seemed like it was about 5 ft, really clean conditions, but still mixed up with a lot of north.looks like the kind of day for backdoor, the sandbars maybe rocky rights

FEb 26,2008
yesterday was about 10 ft + with a washy mixed up swell, a lot more north mix up than weve been seeing on the former big days. noone paddled out early, but midday had a a pack of boogies and just about 5 surfers. i heard that town dropped, but it was really fun kine 2-3 from the middle. i got really sick a couple hours after surfing the big bowl the day before and i have a feeling it was from the water so take your vitamins before surfing out there

Feb 25,2008 Monday
country started out 2-3 ft this morning and totally onshore and then rose midday and had some solid 10 ft sets by this evening and was cleaning up but still really washy. Town was 2-4 ft with an occ bigger set and the wind was clocking from side shore to a slight crumble and at times perfect calm glass

FEb 24,2008 Sunday
flat-2 ft Sw winds by 10am

Feb 23, 2008 Saturday
a notch smaller today with a north swell mixing in making the lefts a little too rolly poly at Pipe and the rights pretty good. sandbars are looking fun too

Feb 22,2008 Friday
waves were so picture perfect again today and it stayed pretty much offshore all day long. the morning had a few left over 6 ft waves but it was mostly 3-5 ft, a notch under yesterdays size.

Feb 21, 2008 Thursday
so fun this morning. 4-6 ft with the moon shinning right over us at Pipe and a pink sky. there were some fun long waves running through Ehukai and some barrells on both the lefts and rights. i must say i am very envious of the boogies today, but i am glad when those guys score because they are so hardcore and the majority of them arent sponsored so they are doin it tough. good waves are their reward rather than the money or fame so many surfers put as a top priority these days so props to them.

Feb 20,2008 Wednesday
fun kine. perfect conditions for the boogie girls at Pipe. some beautiful waves coming through if you can find the right one. I heard Rockys was epic, one of the better days this year and V-Land was said to be looking nice too 3-5 ft

Feb 19 2008 Tuesday
Dont forget to vote tonight! I will be voting for local boy Barrack Obama. Waves were so pretty this morning. 6-8 ft and perfect condtions. barrell after barrell at Pipe. the bodyboard comp is on and if youve been wondering why it seems like there are 90 of them out every day, its because there is. they had 178 entrants and were only able to accept 120. whew. thats a lot of bodyboarders. yesterday was just about 2-4 and Sunday was 1-2. its been clean early morning condtions and onshore in the afternoons

Feb16.2008 Saturday
2-3 ft today and dropping fast. perfect morning conditions with seabreezes midday

>A PRO BOARD BENEFIT FOR JEANNIE CHESSER
HOSTED BY: DEFEND OAHU COALITION
SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2008 WAIMEA VALLEY
12 NOON-6:00 P.M.

BOARDS...BIKINIS…JEWELRY…ART…PHOTOGRAPHY…SURF GEAR…BOOKS…ETC!
RAFFLE, SILENT AND LIVE AUCTIONS PRIMO, PUPU AND MUSIC!
ALL PROCEEDS TO ASSIST JEANNIE CHESSER IN BEATING MERKEL CELL CANCER!
AND DEFEND OAHU COALITION’S CONTINUED FIGHT AGAINST THE TURTLE BAY EXPANSION PLAN.

BE A PART OF THE SOLUTION, HELP Keep the Country COUNTRY!

CONTACT: MARK CUNNINGHAM 808-224-2626 Email: mrc123@mac.com
ALL DONATIONS WELCOMED! NO DONATION TOO LARGE OR TOO SMALL!!! PLEASE KOKUA THE COUNTRY AND JEANNIE.

CHECK OUT BENEFIT WEBSITE www.JeannieChesser.com
FOR INFO & DONATION LISTINGS.

DIRECT DONATIONS CAN BE MADE FOR JEANNIE CHESSER THROUGH
DA FRIENDS OF JEANNIE CHESSER
C/O FIRST HAWAIIAN BANK, KAHALA BRANCH
1348 HUNAKAI STREET, HONOLULU, HI 96816

DEFEND OAHU COALITION
P.O.BOX 416, KAHUKU, HI 96731
www.DefendOahuCoalition.org

MAHALO TO QUIKSILVER FOUNDATION, PRIMO BEER AND SURF NEWS NETWORK.

Feb 15,2008 Friday 7:30am
waves dropped back in the 6-10 ft range this morning, theres some morning sickness with a little more north in the swell than the past days.its a bodyboarding frenzy since their contest starts in a couple days

Feb 14,2008 Thursday 11am Valentines
yesterday dropped all day and was kinda fun for a change. this morning started out a little slow looking like it might be a Pipe day and then got just a tad too big. There were about five boogie boarders out all morning. There were a few sets which guys rode all the way from the third reef outside off the wall to the first reef and being on the boogie it looked hard for them to even get down the face. Inbetween those sets it was pretty much a washing machine which was very tempting at times because there were really long lulls and perfect conditions. Photographer Franko called Waimea "boring" mid morning, but it looked like a real fun kine day minus the fact that there were 40 guys out and I saw one set which looked like it had 10 guys on the same way. My husband is taking a chopper to Phantoms where some of the boys will be shooting.

>February 13,7pm @ WCA Historic Haleiwa Gym Traffic & Transportation Quarterly Meeting
"concerned residents are encouraged to attend" Agenda and Minutes are online at:
http://www.co.honolulu.hi.us/nco/nb27/agendamin.htm

Feb 12,2008 Tuesday
wow, another incredible Pipe day! It started out looking like it was gonna drop, but some 8 footers were rolling in all morning and by afternoon some of the most perfect 10 ft barrells were screaming through. It was maxed out, as big as it gets on the first reef. Both today and yesterday were really dangerous around noon when the tide is low it is super shallow across the reef and the sandbar inside goes dry. Even some of the top guys suffered serious injuries the last couple days; scary. Conditions were perfect offshore wind, NW swell and easy to get out through the channel. epic!

Feb 11,2008 Monday
it was superbowl monday at Pipe today. it started out slow at about 4-6 and rose to 8 ft around 10am and then pulsed from about 1pm-4pm and then started backing down in the evening. The waves were super steep and there were some killer tube rides and some mean wipeouts. There were sets consistently breaking on the second reef for a while, but not as big as last week Thursday. Conditions were pretty good with the wind turning of and on throughout the day.

Feb 10, 2008 Sunday
smaller today with more north. looked like it was picking up midday but then backed down again for the evening.

Feb 9,2008 Saturday 10am
National Weather Service and everyone else was wrong this morning. Surfline was the only one predicting the swell to come back up this big. It was the same size as the big day Thursday, but too north so just kinda washing through and washing around today, About 5 or 6 guys out all morning only a couple of them stand up surfers surfing kindof on the inside hook and just doging the sets. about 10 ft w some 12 ft sets and even one 15 ft set maybe. Sunset is maxed out, nobody riding

Feb 8,2008 Friday 9am
Surf looked kinda like 6 ft first light but then some 10 ft bombs serged in. Not as nice as yesterday though, matter of fact it was pretty bad this morning for conditions. More bump, chop and warble than yesterday and even some backwash today. kinda breaking all over the place. might get better later if the trades kick in

Feb 7,2008 Thursday
I havent bothered to blog until today because its been so flat. Pancho Sullivan won the Monster yesterday in surf that started out at about 1-2 and then rose to about 2-4 by the afternoon. Still better than the Pipemasters atleast.

Today was finally good though. Early am it looked like 1-3 ft with occ 8 ft set and unridable with the sandbar cause the waves to close out with no even entry, but within the first hour some big sets were coming in on the second reef and starting to look pretty good. It pulsed for a couple hours with a few solid 12 ft waves and maybe even one 15 footer, then it lulled for about 45 minutes settled down and got pretty epic for a few waves. It was pretty tricky with the strong wind chop and the warble going through the waves but there were some barrells which seemed big enough to drive a truck through (of course not, but it just seems so big and chunky) Around 2 my husband was raving about perfect photos but then the rain came and suddenly it was junk. I think by 2 it was already dropping and kindof getting weird again, most the sets were just closeouts; the kind where you couldnt get around the section. It was such a good day, really west and nice conditions for a change, even a little warmer. yay

Feb 3 2008 Sunday
wow. i actually see a left at Pipe, first time in two weeks. its about 2-3 with some occ 4. kinda fun but only because its been so junk

Feb 2,2008 Saturday
small waves 1-2 ft. sorta junk small sandbar. cold and windy again. we had a cool little beach access protest at Turtle Bay today. Watch the news for the Statewide protest.

>Statewide Protest for Public Beach Access on Feb 2nd (groundhog day) 10am-12noon organized by Surfrider. Please go to www.surfrider.org/oahu to read more about this protest and see how our public beach access is being threatened throughout the islands.

Feb 1,2008
nothing at all really by Pipe today so no contest. by the afternoon it had come up a little bit, seemed like more tradewind swell wrap. still pretty windy and cold with clean faces

Jan 31, 2008
atleast I did not get belted by rain and wind that hurt my head this morning. conditions are finally somewhat pleasant again for the moment. the waves dropped about a foot and the NE swell is gone so that helps. Pipe contest is on again today (no bodysurfing) and I heard them tell contestants they would be allowed to surf off the wall. I paddled out there this morning, but you still cant really surf Pipe because of the big bar, just backdoor and really more like off the door again

Jan 30,2008
you guessed it, junk again. a little less windy today and a couple feet smaller. about 2-4 ft occ 5. the NE swell is still overiding the west and Pipe is doo doo but they are holding the contest because they are running out of time.the rain pelted down on me so hard this morning that it hurt and I thought it was going to hail like it did on the Big Island yesterday

Jan 28,3008 Tuesday
yesterday was small but started rising out of the west in the evening at Pipe. It wasnt that surfable last night, but it looked a little bit promising. This morning was hideous however. Pipe is like; well where is it? They called off the contest with only smaller waves predicted for the rest of the week so that tells the story. I just checked again around 10:30am and it looked a little bigger than the morning. Some 6 ft sets were coming in at off the door but the warble bump going through the waves were 2 ft and the sandbar is right at the peak making the lefts pretty much unriable and the current looks strong as well. Sunset and Pupukea were a lot better than Pipe but still pretty bad

Jan 27,2008 Sunday
The waves suck again, super windy almost onshore winds again. Lanis and Ehukai are ridable, but not good. Looks like there could be some 6 foot waves somewhere that takes a NE swell . Conditions are getting better than the morning.

This morning I experienced a very ungodly ride to church as I noticed that from sometime yesterday after 12 noon - 7am this morning THEY HAVE GONE AND PUT NO PARKING SIGNS UP AND MADE IT ILLEGAL TO PARK in ATLEAST HALF OF THE ROADSIDE PARKING ON THE NORTHSHORE (WHERE WE USUALLY PARK). That was real sneaky of them man. Im pretty sure they did it over night last night

(This is roadside- I didn't look in between the houses on the roads on the inside yet)
-At V-Land all the roadside parking is now illegal except makai side from the Kahuku side entrance half way in towards the housing gate.
-At Sunset there are no signs facing the beach in the trench there where your facing the surf break up to the lifeguard, tower but on both sides of that trench and both sides of the road it is all illegal
-At Rockys its all illegal
-From Pupukea to Pipe their are just a couple areas where you can park in between the signs
-At Pipe its not too bad Haleiwa side of Ehukai but we did lose the parking makai side from the beach park all the way to the fire hydrant where the path way is and some on the mauka side near the school

There is nothing past Pipe. Im not sure if they just havent finished yet or what. Gosh it almost seems like a jab or even a warning from our Beach Access protest in town the other day. I think there are going to be some really angry people out here on the Northshore when they discover what happened overnight. The doo doo is really starting to hit the fan here in Hawaii man.

Jan 26,2008
The surf is still really junk today. 1-2 occ 3 and srtong side shore trades. I guess the meeting wasnt all bad yesterday. They passed the rule but have to restructure it so atleast we made a little bit of a different. you can read from the paper below

Jan 25,2008 Friday
flat-1 ft this morning with some cute little 2 ft long waves over the sandbar this evening. the kids were having fun out there. DLNR pushed the ruling through for the parking put we had an incredible turnout and I would say that we probably atleast made a few ammendments to the ruling and that since Lingle hasnt signed, its not over yet. I will say that listening in on the frustrating, confusing and long meeting the ruling seems to have been made for all Hawaii Harbours, its just that Bowls is the first. read below to find out about the Statewide Beach Protest on Feb 2nd which has a rally going near you.

Friday, January 25, 2008
Most parking spaces to remain free at Ala Wai harbor
Honolulu Advertiser Staff
More than half of the 1,000 parking spaces at the Ala Wai Boat Harbor will remain free for the time being after more than 100 beachgoers and boat owners showed up at a Board of Land and Natural Resources meeting to protest a proposed fee increase. The rule changes would have implemented or increase fees for all but 130 stalls.
The board considered parking issues for more than three hours before deciding to send the Division of Boating and Ocean Recreation back out for another round of public hearings to develop a parking plan more palatable to harbor users.
Meanwhile, however, the board did approve the rule change that will eventually allow the division to collect parking fees from harbor users if it comes up with a plan that appeals to the board.
Board members made clear that the proposal floated yesterday would not pass muster.
The Division had proposed to reserve 130 spots for beachgoers at the harbor's helipad site, hire a vendor to charge prevailing public parking prices for the rest of the unpermitted spots and raise parking permit fees for slipholders from $20 a year to $25 a month.
No one testified in support of the department's proposal.

>Channel 2 short video clip of the protest @ Kalanimoku Bldg

>ON JAN 25TH FRIDAY @ 9AM KALANIMOKU BLDG., WE WILL HAVE OUR LAST CHANCE TO TESTIFY BEFORE THE DNLR BOARD TO PROTEST THE PRIVATIZED PARKING!!!!!!!!!!!!!
THE KALANIMOKU BLDG. IS ON 1151 PUNCHBOWL STREET, BOARD ROOM 132, 1ST FLOOR. THIS BLDG IS ON PUNCHBOWL, JUST BEFORE THE HONOLULU HALE .
As I understand it, the proposal is not for metered parking, but for a parking attendant which if you've been downtown, you know these types of vendors are expensive. like $8-10 for the day and it is also my understanding that it is illegal to paddle across the channel from Magic Island so if we start parking there, they can give us a ticket. This ruling will overturn the law about Public Beach Access so a threat to our beloved Bowls is a threat to all beaches throughout Hawaii.

Jan 24, 2008 Thursday
flat-2 ft this morning and still pretty windy. not really breaking at Pipe just Ehukai and office the wall.Dont forget the hearing tomorrow at Kalanimoku Bldg rm 132 Save Bowls (read below)

Jan 23,2008 Wed
The wind was calmer this morning and the waves cleaner. As my friend Rick said; it was about 1-5 ft this morning, small with a very occ set. The wind was back up around 9am by the time I came in and the waves were just weird again and it is cold, brrrr.

Jan 22,2008 Tues
Surf was pretty pathetic again today. It died down from yesterday afternoon back to the 2-4 ft range and was even windier believe it or not. V-land and more protected areas are best

Jan 21,2008 Monday
Surf started out about 3-4 ft and got up to about 6 ft by midday. The trades were so strong it kinda ruined the swell, but this evening right before dark it was looking much cleaner and I saw some nice tubes at Pipe. By the way, yesterday was junk and only about 1-2 ft. The day before had some solid 6 ft + waves in the morning after that big day, but it was dropping a lot by 9am in just the 3-5 ft range and a swarm of people

Happy Martin Luther King Day! Over 40 years ago African Americans walked to work for 13 months in their pursuit for equality during the Birmingham bus boycott and I don't need to tell you they got positive results. Are the people of Hawaii willing to sacrifice one day for their rights to have public beach access? Its up to us. read more on Local events below

Jan 18,2008 Friday
Wow. soild 6-10 ft this morning with some 12 ft waves this afternoon. Pipe was kinda weird with a dry sand bar which moved throughout the day so by the end of the day the waves started getting more makeable. There were some really sick pits this evening, I even saw one guy get a wave from the outside rode it through the barrell on the inside and then it connected with the sandbar and he got two more barells in the sandbar. whew. This morning there were more wipeouts and good rides.

Town has been pretty good too the last couple days. Ill put it this way, the national weather service called high surf advisory for town on a lot of days this summer that never got as good as yesterday and today. There were 5 ft pits in the big bowl. We are happy surfers today and things are looking good all week

Jan 15,2008 8am
Waves all over the place again but much bigger than yesterday. theres some foaming waves on the outer reefs but it not really getting into the spots so I guess its about 6-8 ft. Noone out anywhere from off the wall to Pupukea, noone at Vland. they are having the jrs event and Sunset, but it looks pretty weird out there too. still north winds and stormy conditions.

Jan 14,2008 10am
still pretty doo doo kine today. John John was surfing Ehukai by himself early am, but its too north for Pipe or anything. Lanis had only one car in the whole parking lot and nobody surfing so that says it all. the wind is still pretty much straight onshore and the swell is just all over the place. 3-5 ft

Jan 14, 2008 Monday ealry am
still really ragged, not much improvement from yesterday, but the swell is dropping pretty fast.Still 12-15 solid. Pipe is washing through. Three guys at Waimea but it looked hideous

12noon update Jan 13 Sunday
still noone out anywhere. unruly conditions

Jan 13, 2008 Sunday
Huge Mess, but atleast its huge. I haven't seen waves this big in a long time, it must be twenty feet. I saw a wave break outside Sunset which seemed to connect all the way to Rocky Point and a huge bomber that went through Shark's Cove. Didn't see any big ones at the Bay, but Im sure there are a few. Its hideous out there though. I dont know if anyone will actually paddle out. It must be 20 ft today, but who can tell what is a wave and what is chop.

Jan 12,2008 Saturday
Man, this is not a Pipe year. The backdoor shootout ran again today in 4-6 foot clean Pipe and the wind is supposet to come onshore this afternoon. The boogies are all here already for their contest mid Feb. and I cant imagine what it is going to be like when all the pro guys come back for the Monster at the end of this month. The waves are beautiful today though if you like surfing other spots. A little more NW today but still holding.

Jan 11,2008 Friday
RIP Joaquin. Today makes one year since this pioneering Puerto Rican passed away at Pipeline. He was a well known and respected surfer here on the Northshore . As we met on the beach this morning right before the contest to say a prayer with his family, the 8-10 consistent waves came to a hault and then a giant rainbow appeared over Pipe. It was beautiful. Joaquin definitely ordered up some nice waves for the boys at the backdoor shootout today. It will be hard for them to top the scores they got two days ago, but with the swell dropping and turning a little more north, I am sure there will be some epic backdoor barrells. It will go down as one of the best contests held at Pipe for sure. What a blessing!

Jan 10, 2008 Thursday
Too big for Pipe today, the backdoor shoot out is on hold but it was still really consistently washing thru at Pipe when I left around 8am. More north looking than yesterday. Two boogies went out and did alright (it took them two trys but they made it out) two surfers tryed to get out but only got pounded way inside the waterline all the way to pupukea before coming in The backdoor shoot out is on hold untill 11am and Sean is going to shoot some guys who are going to paddle out Phantoms

Jan 9,2008 Wednesday
Finally, we feel like winter has begun. Today was the 3rd and best Pipe day we had all year. The morning had like 50 guys out before you could even see daylight and my friend counted 80 guys out just before the started the contest. Da Hui Backdoor Shootout scored! It was one of the best contest days Ive ever seen at Pipe because with their format, it encourages guys to wait for the good ones and then they can take off on the biggest ones. Jamie and Bruce seem to be in the lead. Nathan got some sick ones and a few others. whoopie, winter is finally here. swell was WNW started out 6-10 and had some solid 12 ft by the evening. perfect calmy wind and sunny. it was beautiful

Early morning before the backdoor Shootout Jan 9,2008 -I guess this is what the National Weather Service is calling a 6 ft faces these days. Everyone showed up with small boards, but we didnt care.
It was getting pretty chunky by the afternoon. Im pretty sure this is Mark Healy
But there were some sick tubes

Jan 8, 2008 Tues
surf was real small this morning about 1-2 ft but came up late afternoon to about 5 ft on the sets. perfect conditions with NW swell

Jan 6,2008 Sunday
still about 2-3 ft, same s yesterday but more west and clean with sunshine

Jan 5,2008 Saturday
still small 2-3 ft but a little more out of the west with more normal trade winds and cleaner condtions

Jan 4,2008 Friday
still kinda stormy but still better than earlier this week. NNE swell is missing Pipe but delivering some disorganized waves at Ehukai and Pupukea. Pretty much still the same size and conditions as yesterday about 3-5 ft occ bigger at NE spots. Yesterday afternoon was better than the morning it was just smoother and more organized

Jan 3,2008 Thursday
it got a little bit cleaner today inbetween rain squalls but the swell direction is so weird, nowheres good again. Pipe is still a big current, the are a few disorganized waves at Pupukea, ehukai and off the wall, Lanis is breaking wave on the end like a west swell, Sunset looked the best.3-5 ft. i caught one wave at Pipe got sucked to backdoor came in and went for a swim in Turtle Bay Lagoon

Jan 2,2008 Wednesday
Surf is still terrible this morning and it doesnt look any bigger than yesterday, but the wind is worse. It is more north today, totally missing Pipe and there are some really ugly waves at Ehukai and Pupukea. 3-5 ft, Lanis might be bigger but I cant see it being very good and the Bay was really brown yesterday

Happy New Year Tuesday 2008
Waves started coming up yesterday afternoon to about 3 ft and this morning it is about 4 or 5 ft and rising out of the north with light onshore wind. pretty terrible. the wind did turn more offshore yesterday afternoon and was decent but i dont know about today. tryed to surf pipe but the current was so strong i got sucked down to off the wall before i even got out to the line and had to paddle the whole time. no where looks good.

New Years Eve Dec 31, 2007 Monday
flat-1 ft onshore NE wind

Dec 29,2007 Saturday
finally a swell that lasts more than half a day. there were still some waves this morning minus the sets from yesterday afternoon, but it seemed like it was dropping when I left by 9am. Not as windy as yesterday yet, still backwashy, bumpy and lumpy with cloudy skys

Dec 28,2007 Friday
the waves actually came up today 3-4 ft occ freak 5 ft. Pipe was like shore break with all kinds of warp and warbles in it not to mention spans of very gusty trades. The boogies were having a blast while most the surfers were just eating it. V-land looked average and I heard it was cleaner down by Haleiwa.

Dec 27,2007 Thursday
barely 1-2 ft again. more of a NE windswell this morning so no waves at Pipe, just beach park

Dec 26, 2007 Wednesday
surf came up this morning. i saw one real 6 ft set at Pipe that was unridable due to the wind and the chop and the warble and the current out there. Mainly its was about 3-4 ft with a few 5 ft sets. i left to town by 10am

Mele Kalikimaka 2007 Tuesday
I guess surfers were naughty this year. Its the smallest Christmas surf Ive ever seen even when I used to live on the Big Island, it wasnt this small. 1-2 ft windy choppy and just baaaad. It a good day to spend time with the family and remember the true meaning of Christmas

Christmas Eve ,2007 Monday
3-4 ft at Pipe, actually looked like it peaked early. I am sure there are some bigger waves elsewhere since the sand is piled up from off the wall thru the beach park making it look like September. Conditions are pretty lumpy bumpy NNW swell, but better than its been in atleast a couple weeks

Dec 23,Sunday 4pm
still just 1-2 or 2-3 depending on where your at. Looks like the water is moving around more today but there is still no real swell

Dec 22, Saturday
1 ft again this morning rising a ft or 2 out of the north by this afternoon

Dec 21,2007 Friday
small surf again this morning about1 ft

Dec 19/20,2007 Wed/Thurs
it started coming up a little midday on thursday but really the swell was just 1-2 ft. good thing is that it was really glassy this morning, no wind with soft onshore seabreeze by midday

Dec 19th-Public Hearing Meeting about Free or Privatized parking at Ala Moana boat harbour effecting 3s, Kaisers, Rockpiles and Bowls is from 6-8pm at Jefferson school cafeteria The Hearing is for public testimony whether it be spoken or written form. Please read newsletter below for all the information or contact Ala Moana local Melissa Ling Ling for more info at commongroundhawaii@yahoo.com

Dec 18,2007 Tuesday
looks like summer time kine waves again today on the northshore, except its not summer, its cold and windy, 1 ft occ 2

Dec 17,2007 Monday
Im calling worst Pipemasters ever because the contest is on.. 1-2 with an very occ 3 on a declining wind swell, windy and disorganized

Dec 16 2007 Sunday
even smaller today, barely a foot at pipe and ehukai. Lanis is about a foot with an occ bigger one

Dec 15,2007 Saturday
1-2 ft today. sandbars were kinda fun for the little shorties and i mean real little shorties. pipe wasnt breaking this mornging so no contest and the wind is strong, sort of side off shore

Dec 14,2007 Friday
it seemed a little better this morning, but maybe just because the waves were atleast as big as the chop. Contest is on at Pipe in 2-3 ft surf which is on the decline. its more windy today and cold

Dec 13 Thursday
Pipeline started out about 1-3 ft this morning and is now about 2-4. Joccos and Sunset and off the wall are in the 3-5 ft range with a couple freak sets here and there but it is really windy and a weird direction everywhere.

Dec 12,2007 Wednesday
Pipe is really small today 1-2 occ 3 and the sandbar and north swell is making it pretty much a close out except for the end of backdoor (off the door) the town cam is looking good

Dec 11, 2007 Tues
Waves were 1-2 occ 3 this morning early and it should rise throughout the day, but the contest is on because theres not much coming during the waiting period. Clean conditions and overcast

Dec 10, 2007 Monday
2-3 ft- not too many waves at Pipe but a few good backdoors still and gums is kinda working. the sandbars are starting to relax a little bit now so its a little less shallow today. conditions are much cleaner than yesterday. offshore wind, but lots of rain

Dec 9, 2007 Sunday
onshore west wind for most of the day cleaning up in the evening 2-4 occ 5

Dec 8,2007 Saturday
weird sandbar with varying wind conditions

Photos courtesy Surfrider Foundation
Dec 7, 2007 Friday
3-5 ft @Pipe this morning. was pretty bad still and very north but the kids were having fun getting some little sandbar tubes at backdoor. those sandbars may not be so nice however when the waves get big but they look like they could move pretty easy. the wind and rain came back around 9am and we even had another short power outage.
Anyone who cares about Bowls- go to the march tomorrow!!!! Flyer below.
Im probably not going to make it by 8:30am from the country so straglers can march with me, but its important we as surfers stand against privatization of our public beaches and to let our government know the next time they dump sewage out in our surf we are united and organized to fight it! If you surf down there you probably know Melissa Ling Ling; she is organizing all this during her free time with passion; so show some love and support for her and for our surf!!

Dec. 6,2007 Thursday
another shopping day. the waves were still pretty disorganized and stormy this morning early, but definitely back to the normal stormy, not like last night. Surf wasnt as big as yesterday either. Looked like about 10-12 occ bigger sets. the whole beach is gone at Pipe, hopefully there wont be some nasty sandbars inbetween the reef from that wind swell. i heard town was as big as 10 ft yesterday breaking outside the buoy at bowls, but unridablle

Dec. 5, 2007 Wednesday
where am i? when I checked the surf tonight i thought I was in Tazmania or Oregon. The surf was like big wind waves breaking all over the place. It was like there were new surf breaks. Waimea had lefts breaking and there was no Pipe, just waves all over the place and big but you couldnt even tell how big and whether it was wind or swell. We lost power in all areas of the island today except Waikiki (hmm- dont want to let those tourists down) The power was out from 3am-8pm here on the Northshore and 83 schools were closed throughout the islands. Several telephone poles were knocked down causing road closures on both sides of the northshore going to town. They did open up a detour on the Kahuku side. A bus was struck by lighting. There was a buoy reading tonight of 28 ft 15 sec which is 26 ft Hawaiian wave heights but I think the readings are being exaggerated by the wind. There is a high surf warning for north shores and even town has a high surf advisory.

Event- WEDNESDAY DECEMBER 5, 2007 6PM - 8PM
KAHEA-The Hawaiian Environmental Alliance Event announcement!
Live the Legacy-Continuing traditions of activism in Hawai'i
@ Church of the Crossroads 1212 University Avenue

Dec 4,2007 Tues 1:32
Christmas shopping? the surf sucks again today. smaller and more north. Waimea got decent and had a few real Bay sets yesterday in spurts. The contest is on and I guess they will probably try to finish today before we get the hurricane winds this afternoon. Makua Rothman won the Oneil Cup

Dec 3,2007 Monday
cleaner than yesterday, barely. Pipe is north and shredded. 1 guy paddled out for 30min and then 2 boogies, but its terrible. not as big as the other swell yet but 8am buoy is at 20ft 14 sec so the swell is just hitting now. contest is on, but only because conditions are expected to get worse and they have 1 1/2 days left and the waiting period ends in 3 days (Dec 6). Looks terrible there too, like you cant even see a wave, its just all over the place. I heard they are jetskiing them out to the line up

Dec 2, 2007 Sunday
totally trashed. go to church!

Dec 1,2007 Saturday
Waves started out about 6-8 ft at day break and there were some second reef 12 ft bombs by 8am. It seemed North at first and then there were some good west ones and then it got all warbly and weird then the SW wind killed it totally. there were some occ 15 ft sets throughout the day, but the swell didnt get as big as expected. They held the contest at Sunset which was pretty horrific by 10am with the big wash through sets and the huge chop but I guess they are probably running out of time with three more fronts on the way

Nov 30,2007 Friday
Flat -2 ft this morning. perfect condtions. sure looked fun last night.

Nov 29,2007 Thursday
Perfect conditions today with waves mainly in the 4-6 foot range with occ 8 and even bigger set this morning. the pack was pretty hardcore. almost as bad as it can get out there. Sophia Mulanowhich won the Roxy Pro today!!

Wednesday update
surf cleaned up around mid morning and we started to see the first real tubes at Pipe all year. around 2pm there were some solid 8 ft sets with some 10ft waves by dark

Nov 28,2007 Wednesday
The ocean is stormy. a whole different look from yesterday. These are suppose to be SE winds but its stormy and choppy with occ clean faces. This morning is 3-5 occ 6, but the buoys are up, should be better this afternoon

Nov 27,2007 Tues
Started out real small this morning just 1-3 ft and then grew throughout the day in surges. Pipe was 3-5 occ 6 ft but I heard Joccos was in the 6-8 ft range. Condtions were near perfect most the day except midday when it got a little onshore and crumble.

Nov 26 MOnday
1-2 occ soft 3 perfect condtions buoys are up by 2pm

Nov 25 Sunday
surf dropped 2-3 occ 4 ft early morning and then got smaller by the afternoon

Nov 24 2007 Saturday
bummer. thought it would be more fun this morning with most of the sand gone by Pipe, but the swell keeps turning north and still had morning sickness with a lot of chop and turbulence. The current was so strong it took me 3 trys to get out, but there were actually a couple good tubes out there for the highly skilled. 6-8 this morning, maybe a couple bigger ones somewhere today, but the swell is dropping fast

Nov 23,2007 Friday
wow. what a day. the morning started out about 10-12 with some 15 ft sets at Pipe and Sunset, unridable and pretty N looking. Waimea looked small in the morning, more like outside Pinballs than the Bay, but by evening it was really cracking on the outer reefs more like solid 15 ft and Waimea had some 12+ sets right before dark. The sand really moved out today, just a little point on the berm left to take out and were on. The real action was going on at Haleiwa where the guys were tearing it up with maxing out wash thrus grinding through the break that were connecting with Avalanche. (read more below)

Today's Contest Update:
Roy Powers Rules Reef Hawaiian Pro
With warning level surf advisorys predicted, the Reef Hawaiian Pro finished up at maxing Haleiwa. Waves started out in the 8-10 occ 12 ft range and ended with solid 15 ft sets which were connecting from Haleiwa to Avalanche. When 3rd place Australian Joel Parkinson was interviewing on the podium about his game plan for the final , he simply "to survive" Kauaii Boy Roy Powers dominated the final, with 2 tube rides on set waves that seemed unridable. He had everyone comboed with a score of 18.84 except for Australian Bebe Durbidge who placed second. The favorite of the day was 4th place finalist Sean Moddy from Haleiwa who took out Andy Irons and Mick Fanning in his quartfinal heat and was doing some best backside surfing anyones ever seen in huge surf at Haleiwa. Dean Morrision scored a perfect ride earlier in the day and all the guys were surfing a level above what anyone had expected.

Nov 22 Thurs. 2007 Happy Thanksgiving
The waves dropped a lot today. The morning started out real stormy morning sickness today and then started cleaning up around midday. Lanis looked like it had some long ones every once in a while, not perfect but decent. It was way more north today almost NE

Nov 21, 2007 Wed
They're here. The waves have finally arrived on the Northshore, but once again they came like so many other times in the last two years with onshore winds. I had to convince Vince Cavatio and another bodysurfer to come out to Pipe with me this morning, just so I could remember what a big wave looks like. Scary, thats what it looks like, now I remember. Surf was in the 6-10 ft range with victory at sea type conditions, but much bigger and more west than predicted. At Pipe it was just me and the two bodysurfers and a 4 bodyboarders when I went in. The current was strong and the waves were turning more and more north, therefore missing Pipe and going to outside Poops and off the wall. It wasnt very surfable, but a lot of sand moved today' no more slant in the berm. There were about 15 guys surfing small Waimea, and a few guys riding the inside at Sunset. I saw a tow crew outside Lanis by Holtens which was starting to clean up a little more this afternoon, but not that much

Today's Contest Update
POW!! Round of 64 for the mens kicked off in horrendous surf at Haleiwa. The waves which were solid 6-10 ft were doubling and tripling up with chop going through them at just about every angle. When I showed up commentator Liam McNamara had the whole beach in silence awaiting Sunny Garcia who had not made it in time for his heat. You could almost feel the relief when we saw him paddle out 5 minutes into the heat. Sunny had been caught in a road block at Waimea Bay which took 1 1/2 hours and that was no joke because I got caught in it too. Sunny still managed to strap a solid first wave in his heat, but couldn't get a second wave which cost him the second place position by just 2.4 Also just missing that heat in 3rd place was Fred Patacchia who might have made it if he didn't break his leash trying to bust through a quadruple up close out set. He caught some of the biggest waves in the heat and did some incredible floaters but just couldn't put it all together into one high scoring wave. Mauis young amateur surfer Granger Larson made it through that heat along with Milael Pikon from France. That one heat was a good example of the day since surfers were breaking their boards and their leashes and looked like they were just getting beat to death in the froth. Pancho Sullivan and Evan Valiere were said to have been commanding the stage in earlier rounds and advanced. One of the most exciting heats was with current world champion Mick Fanning and Haleiwa's own Sean Moody who both made it through. The wind turned just enough in that heat that we could see some real Haleiwa. Moody caught one of the best waves all day and just threw some incredible roundhouse carves and snaps, meanwhile Mick Fanning busted an air and threw some tailslides over the chop, making it seem as if he were out in 2 ft beachbreak. Tonino Benson from the Big Island also gave us a dose of new school flavor which manifested a lot of ooos and ahhhs from the beach and made for some great heat exchanges with Taj Burrow. Other surfers advancing to the final day of competition were Jordy Smith, Andy Irons, Bruce Irons, Nathan Caroll, Bede Durbige, Ian Walsh & Taylor Knox. The contest is off tomorrow for the Thanksgiving holiday, but an even bigger more westerly swell will be in for Friday and Saturday which will be last day of the holding period. Hopefully the wind will get an act. Stay tuned!!

Nov 20,2007 Tues
Waves dropped off today and was pretty junky until the evening when it started cleaning up

Nov 19,2007 Monday
God help us. first high surf advisory of the year (even though its been this big a couple other times without the advisory) and its total crap. it seemed like it was starting to turn around mid morning and then got really worse again, i was devising a plan to surf pipe w/o getting sucked to tim buck too when a huge black cloud englufed the northshore and it started to rain so i gave up and here i am, back to work. what a bummer

Nov 18,2007 Sunday
waves were pretty small early am but rose throughout the day. Off the wall looked like solid 5 ft on the set by evening. early conditions were light onshore and stormy but by the end of the day it started cleaning up a little on the faces

Nov 17, 2006 Saturday
flat this morning, but it just barely started to break right before dark. should be waves tomorrow

NOV 16, 2007 Friday
Surf dropped more today. it was 2 ft with a couple sets here and there. I think town came up to about 3 feet. conditoins were off and on all day from super clean to gusty

Nov 15,2007 Thursday
it acutally came up to 6 ft solid last night with a couple bombs, but it was kinda junky at most places. Today was real fun at Lanis and Pupukea and logs because the swell turned more north, almost NNE

Nov 14,2007 Wed
the surf did come up this morning, but was not the 6-8 ft expected. It was about 4-5 with occ 6 ft and more NNW not straight N

Nov 13,2007 Tues
today dropped from yesterday and was only about 1-3 most of the day until the evening when it started coming up late afternoon to about 5 ft, but more out of the North

Nov 12, 2007 Monday
yesterday and today were about 2-3 ft w and occ soft 4 footer. today was really nice and clean and beautiful so they held the first day of the first leg of the Triple Crown at Haleiwa. Pipe had a little more shape to it today but still some backwash action

Nov 10, 2007 Saturday
Surf started out real small 1-2 occ 3 and grew a little bit a North facing locations, but was kinda weird everywhere. It seemed to clean up throughout the day as well

Nov 9,2007 Friday
the swell didnt really come again. last night I saw a couple 4 ft waves and today it seemed to be dropping already. they are holding the XCEL because the waiting period is up

Nov 8, 2007 Thursday
Yesterday and today we were suppose to get a swell that never really came. There were some soft 3 ft waves last night, but barely and today seemed smaller already. Sorry Ive been lagin on reports since i have been chasing waves all around the island.

Here is the update on whats been happening.

Tues Nov 5th
Town dropped a lot, but still had a couple 5 ftrs early am, less wind, but still superbumps in the waves, by afternoon the wind was howling again and the surf dropped a lot. Country was pretty much flat that day.

Monday Nov 4th
My friends called me crack of dawn to say that it was offshore in town, but when I arrived at 7:45am the wind was already howling through the boat harbour. We surfed the solid 4-6 foot big bowl anyways even with the tretchurous conditions, only 6 guys out. There were even a couple 8 ft sets, I think, but it was so messy it was hard to even read the size. Mike Akima still managed to get a few quadrupling up tubes, but most of us were struggling just to stand up. Country had dropped back to 2-4 ft that morning and just 1-3 by evening

Sunday Nov 3rd
I was at Bowls crack of dawn and the swell had not arrived, but the onshore winds had, but there were a few solid waves that morning that were pretty much unridable in nasty dirty water. When I came home I found Pipe to be solid 4-5 ft with a few 6 ftrs by evening and it looked like there were some 8 foot sets at Sunset and Rockpiles and probably a few other weird spots. When I drove by the Bay I considered that the water there was probably even more toxic that the Ala Wai run off at the Bowl, it was pretty dark brown.

Oct 29, 2007 Monday
we had some windswell at east facing breaks yesterday, the swell started coming up last night and this morning was pretty junk. another too north too west swell so nowhere is really very good. only 4 of us out this mornging along the whole stretch from off the wall to Pupukea and only a few guys there. still super windy and junky. Sunset is probably the best where they are holding the contest-

town came up to 3 ft yesterday, i went there and had fun, today is a little bigger

Oct 27 Friday 2007
still super small like yesterday. barely breaking flat-1 ft

Oct 25, Thurs. 2007
smaller and windier today. pretty bad, but still a couple 3 foot wind waves

Oct 24,2007 Wednesday
dropped from yesterday and is still kinda windy junky, but V-Land and other more protected areas are fun just to ride a few waves. 2-3 ft occ 4

Oct 23, 2007 Tuesday
yesterday morning was dead flat but beautiful no wind conditions. The swell started hitting pretty small and junked out last night around 3pm and this morning had a few 5 ft waves with funky, junky conditions like wind waves which sort of cleaned up by midday but then the tide was too high making for fat crumbly conditions. i think this evening will be the best but it seems like the swell already peaked out and is dropping

Oct 20,2007 Saturday
Swell came up until about noon when it peaked. was a lot more north than the past couple but still too west for Lanis to be really working however i heard by the evening the swell had turned more north and Lanis got good. i also heard Silver Channels was thick and fun.Rockpiles had some bombs 6 ft + then it died out by evening

Oct 18,2007 Thursday
yay! an actual swell this morning. more than a bump. was pretty fun 3-4 ft maybe a bigger one at select spots. In about a month or two we will be calling this junk and disorganized, but for now we are all happy campers.

Oct 17,2007 Wednesday
Buoys are up but its still real small here this morning. 1 occ 2 ft, smaller than yesterday

Oct 16,2007
waves came up a tad today and we had a few 3 footers. it was small but clean and fun. Lanis had some long rights and rockys short lefts. a couple at off the wall but they took long and hardly even breaking at Pipe/ Backdoor

Oct 15, 2007
tiny surf on the Northshore again today flat- 1 ft, pretty windy in the afternoon

Oct 13,2007 Saturday
Sorry I havent been keeping up but the waves have been lagging so hard i dont even want to think about it much less report on it. town had a fun little bump Wednesday into Thurs with some solid 3 ft perfect waves and country came up a little bit Thurs and Friday with some 2 foot waves. Today had some 3 footers and was more consistent but it was still kinda junky and lame. Menehunes are competing at Haleiwa today

Sept 30,2007 Sunday
Early morning the surf was flat and noone really out anywhere (couple guys at rocky rights) then the swell came up quick around mid morning and was the biggest weve seen yet with some soid 5 ft this evening.Very backwashy and warbly at most spots except VLand and Sunset Point. Clean conditions and a NW swell

Sept 29, Saturday
barely breaking flat-2 ft in the country and south shore looks pretty small on the cam

Sept 28,2007 Friday
the swell was dropping throughout the day today but there were still a couple 3 ft waves here and there, Sunset looked the best. It was much cleaner than yesterday this morning but got pretty windy again in the afternoon

Sept 27,2007 Thursdaythis morning was really bumpy and choppy 2-3 ft. It looked like it was coming up around 10am, but when i paddled out it seemed more inconsistent in the morning. There were a couple 4 ft waves here and there but the sloppy conditions and NNW direction of the swell made it kinda junk

Sept 24 Monday
saw a few jokers at Chuns but other than that theres nothing to ride up here on the Northshore. town was pretty dinky last night and looks tiny again today on the cam

Sept 21& 22 Friday/Saturday
Surf came up on Friday to about 1-3 occ 4 (kinda) it was windy and choppy and not very exciting. There were a couple waves at V-land, but there were a lot of people fighting for them, thats for sure. By Saturday. it was 1-2 in the morning and almost totally flat by the afternoon

Sept 20,2007 Thursday Northshore is still flat this afternoon with strong wind and no sign of swell yet on the buoy. Looks like some fun waves in town. Yesterday was 1-2 occ 3 in town but super windyJeannie Cheeser Fundraiser is tonight at Hard Rock Cafe; it starts at 9:30!!100% of proceeds will go to help Jeannie who is fighting cancer

Sept 16, Monday 2007
town was fun today, 1-3 feet

Sept 15,2007 Sunday
waves dropped down a lot today barely 2 ft and kinda junk, but town came up a little

Sept 14, 2007 Saturday
okay i think the waves were good enough to say this is the first swell of winter. 1-3 occ 4, WNW real clean. i surfed super backwashing Pipe which was challenging but fun. some boogies were getting tubed but the surfers who dared were mostly eating it. Rockys was alright and so was sunset point where they were holding the jrs contest. The surf report hypes up the last two swells out here that are barely even breaking and then downplay the real swell today saying its not even going to hit when there were already waves last night. it was a blessing for us, not too crowded at all today and pretty fun

Im not sure about town, looks like it dropped though on the cams

Sept 13,2007 Friday
town was really fun the last two days. yesterday was really cool cause we got to watch the thunderbirds inbetween sets. midday it picked up to about 4 ft and some of the guys said one wave almost closed out the channel last night ( that was just a real freak wave) but there were a couple in the bowl. today the swell was declining already, but still good. i arrived at daybreak and had to park all the way down at the meters it was so crowded. country started coming up tonight 1 occ 2 feet

last week
those two country swells were really weak, anyone who says anything different is losing it, but atleast something to get wet and stand up on; 2 days of it

Sept 8,2007 Saturday
it did come up today on the northshore. NNW. I saw one near 4 ft wave break of dawn at pupukea that barrelled but then never saw anything close to that for the rest of the day. mainly it was about 1-2 maybe a 3 at top spots like rocky rights but it was totally packed by first light with people i have never seen before in my life. kindof a scary start to the season; theres not even waves, yet its totally packed and everyone is on it. honestly, id rather be surfing small town myself

Sept 6,2007 Thursday
Lanis dropped today in the 1-2 f range but was still packed with longboard bastards. sorry but even if you are one, you know its true. Thats okay shortboarders will get their turn soon. it was a beautiful morning again with perfect conditions.

I dont remember which day this was last week, but check out this picture taken by Kirk Fritz with this new camera you put on your wrist like a watch and it takes 3 megapixel photos and videos in the water; only $135. wow!
Check out www.goprocamera.com

Sept 5, 2007 Wednesday
Lanis was real nice this morning despite the 100 people out there. 1-2 occ 3 and super clean. Town looks like it popped up a little too

Sept 4, 2007
i guess Lanis started breaking last night and was about 2 ft today but was kinda windy and lame with a solid crowd of not so coordinated folks out there.

Aug 31-Sept 2
the last three days had waves surging in and out with the tides sometimes offering some solid 4 footers. it was classic Ala Moana at times especially midday when it was just so beautiful out there; I am so happy. On Sunday, I didn't drive, but heard it dropped back to the 2 ft range with some occasional sets and all the kids were out enjoying the long weekend

Aug 30 Thursday
I guess their were some larger sets this morning breaking in the big bowl but when i surfed from7am-9:30, it was a little smaller than yesterday yet less consistent. 2-3 ft occ 4. trade winds are back. im talking about town of course.

Aug 29 2007 Wed
the slumber is over (we hope) Last week had three days of 1-3 ft waves in town and a dribble of 1 ft at Lanis. Yesterday was a big of a drag but today was really fun. nothing over 4 ft but beautiful, perfect conditions and waves were good. nobody complaining. buoys seem to be holding and even becoming more consistent.

Aug 15 2007 Wed
bummer that hurricane couldnt throw us any side scraps of surf, I surfed Bowls with three guys today, thats how small it was, a very occ 2 ft. i actually checked Diamond Head and saw a couple 3 foot sets but its still just Diamond Head. Main thing our friends on the Big Island are safe. Surf over the weekend was actually bigger on south shores thans it was today. Lanis has had a few guys out trying to ride but barely.

Aug 8,2007
Maybe I need to stop praying that God would help me get my work done.whew, small kine. i see a couple guys trying to surf Lanis right now. i have been surfing it barely breaking kine for the last couple days. bad news is that is suppose to stay like this for the rest of this week and next week. good news is rap artist Common is coming to Honolulu to break up the monotony on Aug 16th at Pipeline Cafe.

Thursday Aug 2,2007

Surfed town Monday, Tues Wed. was all kinda the same 1-2 with very occ 3. Not very exciting but atleast something to ride I guess. today looks smaller on the cam

Pray for Twin Cities! I just came back from there about 3 weeks ago for a Hip Hop Summit and Exhibit, Minneapolis is full of community minded and progressive thinking people. It is a great city!

Monday July 30,2007

Went in to town today and was also there Saturday. The swell predicted either didnt come or just isnt much. 3 ft sets Max and they were very soft longboard kine waves.

July 27,2007 Friday
Lanis was alright the last couple days 1-2 ft maybe a couple bigger ones throughout the day. Today looks pretty small on the cam for both south and north shores but ive havent actually checked it yet

July 20, 2007 Friday
Aloha all,been back about a week and I guess the south shore was good while I was gone, but not all it was cracked up to be by the media as usual. There hasnt been much since Ive been back. Some dribbly 2 ft in town and in the country. Lanis was pretty fun with a couple 3 footers Wednesday and town came up a tad too this week off and on. Yesterday it looked like there was a little west popping up at Pipe with some 2 ft waves but this morning it was more like an east swell breaking best at Ehukai/Pupukea and Camies (didnt see Lanis) There were some 3 ft waves but mush burger to da max.

The Surf Auction is on Friday and Saturday!

June 27,2007
gosh, there really hasnt been much surf at all since my last report on July 17th. I have been surfing some tiny bowls and tiny Lanis. One day at Lanis it was 2 ft. I am leaving to the mainland tomorrow so I guess I am your sacrifice since it looks like it will be good for a few days. Dont you hate that. Anyways, I will be back July 11 and then it will probably be flat again, but the slow months will be over before we know it

Aloha

June 17, Sunday 2007
Thursday was the biggest day with just a couple 4 footers, but the swell stayed in the 2-3 foot range all week on the south shore. Even yesterday was still fun 3 ft waves. Country had 1-2 ft yesterday with maybe a few 3 ft waves here and there at select NE spots, today was just back to 1 ft

June 13,2007 Wednesday
town came up today and was fun, just 2- occ 3 but running across the reef perfectly at Bowls with nice condtions.

June 8,2007 Friday
i surfed town last night after the contest. it was fun but dropped plenty. no more bowl waves; but I bet there were still a couple in the early morning. today looks the same on the cam and the northshore is flat still. my next report will be on the next significant swell.

Big MOXX and Siq Records released their new CD Dirty Aloha @ Next Door Nightclub. If you like REAL Hip Hop and Rap check out our Hawaii MCs and go see them live. The are crazy Freestylists too; blow your mind
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Dont forget to check out the Us Girls Fashion show this Sunday June 3rd @ Fashion 45 nightclub near Comp USA in Honolulu.

June 6,2007 Wednesday
Bowls was pretty good today. Biggest swell so far this summer. Some 5 ft sets. kinda choppy this morning and cleaning up in the afternoon. I think it peaked from 9-11am. Northshore is still pretty much flat. State championships at Ala Moana tomorrow

Davey Boy Gonsalves @ Big Bowl photo by: Sean Davey June 6,2007 Wednesday

June 5,2007 Monday
there was still a little bit of left over surf on the NOrthshore yesterday and evening this morning had like 1- occ2 but it was pretty junky with more northly trades. i heard town was good yesterday. i went today and it was coming up and pretty fun, 2-3 ft

June 3, 2007 Sunday
Waves have been fun on the Northshore today and yesterday. 2-4 ft, clean in the morning with afternoon side shore variable mush. It was not 6 ft as the surf report said, maybe some 5 footers last night at Off The Wall. A little more west today than yesterday. A few guys from town in the line up said town was on the smaller side compared to the rest of the week.

June 1,2007 Friday
still pretty flat out here on the Northshore today, town looks a little smaller on the cam. Yesterday had a few 3 ft waves for the patient; pretty much all week has been fun kine about that size in town

May 29,2007
surf declined yesterday on the Northshore and was pretty junky mushy, today is pretty much flat-I surfed town last night, it was clean and nice, with some very occ 3 ft sets. I guess Sunday was the best day for the contest, a little bigger than yesterday and a lot more consistent.

May 26,2007 Saturday
The waves came up on the Northshore around midday yesterday and reached 4 ft by the evening. This morning there were still a few sets but the swell is dropping quick. Town stayed about the same yesterday and Im not sure about today but I know the Local Motion Surf into Summer event is happening at Bowls

May 23,2007 Wednesday
Country came up a little today 1-2 ft . town dropped yesterday, i didnt go today but it looks about the same as yesterday on the cam

May 21,2007 Monday
Small waves for a while. End of last week we got a two day deal at Lanis like 1-3, then yesterday a fun 1-3 ft south swell came through. A couple four footers every once in a great while. Yesterday was kinda junky and disorganized at the bowl but the swell seemed to have peaked in the evening with just a few left overs this morning which was a lot cleaner than yesterday but started getting kinda crumbly when I left around 11am

May 10,2007 Thursday
1-2 NE

May 9,2007 Wed
2-3 ft north wind swell

May 7, 2007 Monday
Surf dropped this morning, only 1-2 ft and very windy

May 6,2007 Sunday
surf was really fun today. It was 2-4 ft occ .Pipe had a little warble but a couple good barells and some long rides all the way to Ehukai

May 3,2007 Thursday aftermoon
okay town came up today, but nothing to write home about. It was an inconsistent 1-3 with an occasional almost 4 footer. still kinda windy and slow. Northshore dropped plenty and was only about 1 ft.

May 2, 2007 Wednesday evening
surf was pretty disappointing this morning. the northshore was a junky 3-4 ft which dropped a notch and cleaned up a bit in the evening and town was pretty much only flat-1 when I surfed it around 9am. it seemed to be picking up a little when I left around noon

May 1 Tues.
picked up just before dark, but was flat pretty much all day

April 27.2007 Friday
surf jumped up a tad today. about 2-3 ft onshore winds midday with a little bit of glass off this evening

April 25,2007 Wed 9am
swell dropped even furthur today. just about 2-3 occ 4 and still pretty windy and junky, but the wind does seem to be dying a little bit now

April 24,2007 Tues
It started droping by yesterday afternoon and still had some left over sets early this morning with just 2 boogies out, but then a rain squal came bringing even stronger winds which seemed to just kill the surf. It was only about 4-6 when I left around 9am.

YESTERDAY was bombing with some 12 ft sets at Pipe. Nobody out for about the first hour and then the regular morning crew of about 7 guys went out. Some guys managed to get some sick ones inbetween the weird ones and the wash thrus, but it was pretty windy, washy and treachurous yesterday. Please keep in mind that my husband is a really good photographer and the waves were not really this clean or easy as it looks.

Rick April 23,2007 Monday- freak Pipe swell

Wade Tokoro tokorosurboards.com Pipe April 23,2007
Pipe April 23,2007 Jeff Hubbard, his brother and a few others have been lappin it up. a little too funky for the surfers, but for these guys they have been out all by themselves at times just going nuts. This morning I saw a guy do an ARS land it and then get tubed, makes me wish I knew how to bodyboard.

April 18,2007 Wednesday
sorry guys been stuck on taxes. yesterdays little swell was a dousy. 3-5 with occ bigger sets, but pretty much a mess. only about 8 guys at Pipe. today noone is at Pipe. it is smaller 1-3 ft and still junk, more north. more swells on the way- hopefully the wind will get its act together. ill keep reporting until we go into the summer slumber and then just report on major north or south swells

April 11 Wednesday 9:00am
Waves were about 3-5 occ 6 yesterday morning and dropping. it was pretty fun if you could get the right one, but long waits. Today was still dropping until about 8:30am when I came in. more of a North swing to it today, not so good.

April 9,2007 Monday10:45am
really good Pipe this morning. started out kinda funky and washy but is cleaning up and delivering some beautiful waves. big with some occ second reefers but mostly everyone sitting on the 1st reef. not perfect but not crowded being a late season swell that half the Northshore cant get to because of the Rockslide

April 8,2007 Easter Sunday
Im back from my trip to some pretty killer waves. When I got back around midday there was noone out at Pipe because it was mixed up all over the place and really just too north I guess. I heard Waimea had some fun kine stuff with decent conditions. It looked like about 10-12 ft. In case you dont already know the Bay is closed due to a Rock Slide so choose your side wisely

I'm on vacation in Australia until Easter so no reports until after Easter. Aloha

March 28 Tues 2007
flat-1 ft. beautiful day, crystall clear water. wow

March 21 Wed 9am
flat-1 ft, cloudy, windy, choppy

March 19 Tuesday 4pm
this morning still had a few 4 or 5 ft sets but still super windy and chopped up, undesirable surf. It looks like the wind is calming down now but so is the swell

March 18 Monday 9:25am
swell is dropping but still in the 6-10 ft range but still pretty much a windblown mess. The faces are cleaner today but the wind is actually stronger and just gustier.

March 17 Sunday 10am
Big again, crapy again. Pipe is about10-12 feet, a few takers this morning, but not many. junky, choppy sloppy conditions with a few occasional waves with clean faces but not very good. When I went back around 10am it had gotten even more disorganized and confused. The wind seems to be the problem with a NNE onshore breeze to it

March 16 Friday 4pm
this morning hat glassy, but warbly chopped up type wind waves and then the wind came straight onshore again. only about 1-3 today

March 15, 2007 Thursday 9:15am
4-6 ft at Pipe, seems west but its breaking really deep from backdoor and is really hard to get into like on the north swell so i dont know what the heck is going on. could be the bulldozers moving the sand and making it all funky. clean condtions especially compared to the last couple days

March 14 update 4:00pm
I saw two guys out at Pipe on the cam and it was starting to look doable, but then came totally onshore with the variable and now its really horrible and dropped pretty much as fast as it came up. Just like Pinballs. It probably would have been fun at Waimea after the rain this morning for a couple hours, but other than that, just another junky swell

March 14 update9:30am
dropping plenty but still junked up- noone out at Pipe or Sunset

March 14 Wednesday 7:30am
The waves must have been having fun last night while we were sleeping because sand went all the way down the path and into the parking lot at Pipe. I had a feeling this morning might be pretty junk when I saw a crazy lighting storm on the way to the beach. Storm surf with a lot of chop going throught the face at Pipe and Waimea is better but still not that good. The swell seems to be dropping fast. Watch Waimea and didnt see any real big ones, noone out at Pipe yet. It started raining and almost looked like it was going to glass off when I was leaving; well see.

update: March 13 Tues 6pm
I surfed about until about 1:30 and it was only 5 ft on the sets and very inconsistent, but when I went back at four it was already starting to wash through Pipe and by 5:30 Pipe was closed out all the way across. I checked Waimea and it looked like 15-18 ft. The SW - W winds unfortunately have already kicked in however and it is all pretty crappy. Waimea looked cleaner than Pipe, but still far from perfect.

March 13 Tuesday 11am
wow buoys are huge 23-17. biggest readings all season, but looks like it will come with a storm and poor conditions. the swell is not showing yet though, it was only 1 ft earliers when I checked around 9am

March 11, 2007 Sunday
3-4 occ 5, cleaner this morning but had a north swing and a warble too it. Lanis was starting to work a little

March 10, 2007 Saturday 10:05am
Waves were junky stormy this morning about 2-4 occ 5. i paddled out all by myself but got kinda spooked being that it was so empty around there. I see about 5 guys out right now and it looks like atleast clean faces now but still kinda junk. gloomy overcast weather prevails. the town cam is looking pretty decent

March 7,2007 Wednesday
Waves are 3-4 with 5 ft sets this morning and epic conditions for the women's Pipeline Championships

March 6,2007 Tues
4-6 ft and epic conditions for the women's Pipeline Championships early morning then getting really junky onshore mush around noon

Feb 29, 2007 Thursday 9am
1 occ 2 ft. NNE swell

Feb 28 Wednesday 9am
small kine 1-2, really windy

Feb 27 Tuesday Noon
Sorry, have been too disapointed to even report on the surf lately. Its been in the 1-3 ft range pretty much until yesterday when a couple 4 ft sets came for about 4 hours and today its getting smaller. I heard town had some fun waves yesterday and a few days ago in the 3 ft range.

Feb 18 Sunday 3:30pm
It was only about 4 ft by last night and 1-2 ft this afternoon

Feb 17 Saturday
still about 6-8 ft today but really disorganized and all over the place with some pretty good size trade wind bump running up the face

Feb 16, Friday 2007
Surf dropped into the 8-10 ft range. May have been a little bigger real early on, but the wind got on it about 8am and it is turning a little bit more north getting smaller and getting a little bit more disorganized

Feb 15 Thursday
Waves started out bigger than expected totally washing through Pipe, then there was a lull in the swell from about 8:30am-12 noon when another serge came bumping surf into the 15 ft range. I only saw Pipe which was off and on, but still some of the best waves all season, but I think there were actually some 18 ft waves on the outer reefs.

Feb. 14, Wed. 10am
a couple 3 or maybe even 4 foot sets early am but now it is dropping and mainly in the 1-2 foot range occ 3. beautiful conditions. clear water and a nice day

Feb 12 Tuesday noon
Surf report said it was dropping but it actually popped up a little bit today. 2-4 occ 5. a little north wind on it this morning but its nice and clean now. the direction is kinda weird with a north swing shutting down both Pipe and Backdoor with Off the Wall kinda being the hot spot

Feb 11 Sunday sundown
2-3 this morning rising to about 3-5 by evening. more organized and out of the west today but still kinda junk

Feb 10 Saturday 8:00am
smaller today, but still junky, crapy and all over the place. too north for Pipe. a few point break style off the door waves that are very hard to get to. dont know about downside yet. CONGRADS TO JAMIE O BRIEN FOR WINNING HIS 3RD PIPE CONTEST YESTERDAY

Feb 9 Friday 8:30am
Terrible this morning. Like one of the worse days all year, but hopefully when the sun hits the ocean something will make it better for these guys in the Monster Pro.Its like 6-8 ft I guess, but so all over the place its hard to really say the size. Most of the big sets seem to be missing Pipe. Its been a tough call for this competition with bad conditions pretty much the whole time. Some of da boyz who are still going are Ranos, Flynn,Dave Wassel, Kanoa Mcgee, Waikita and more.

Feb 8 Thursday sundown
the surf did get a little larger by midday yesterday and Jamie Stearling, Garrett McNamara, Dave Wassel and Jamie O Brien were getting towed in at the 3rd reef. It was really cool to watch. The winds were chewing it up midday.

Feb 8 Thursday 9:10am
Only one bodyboarder paddled out early this morning and now its just Garatt out there with another bodyboarder. I don't know if its just too big or just too close togethr. Something looks really right about it and something looks really wrong. They are expecting the surf to continue rising but the buoy is dropping. Monster Pro is off. Conditions are pretty nice contrary to surf reports predicting north winds.

Feb 7 Wednesday 2007, sundown
the canceled the Monster Pro today after just three heats because the sheerline looked like it was setting in, however after the rain it started cleaning up and was pretty decent by the evening. 6 ft solid with some bigger sets and clean glassy faces. the waves were still a bit weird, but certainly we werent expecting it to get better this evening

Feb 7 Wednesday 2007 9:30am
kind of a cross chop running through the waves with a lot more north in the swell. still 6-8 with a couple 10s but nothing like yesterday. it seemed to be cleaning up and dropping fast right when the contest started. The backdoor is probably the winning wave for today, but you never know. At 9:30am it started raining and looks like this front is settling in pretty good. Dark cloudy skys.

FEB 6,2007 Monster Pro Rainos Hayes
The funny thing about this photo is that when I asked Rainos how he did in his heat; he says, "I caught safety waves"

I guess we all have a different idea of "safe". Like I said in my report, some waves were shutting down,

and then there were some good ones. Randall Paulson February 6,2007 Monster Pro

Mark Matthews: Wave of the season? click here

Feb 6 Tuesday 3:30pm
This morning was pretty good. The waves were still pretty weird and shutting down mostly, but some of the biggest most organized Pipe we've seen this year.There was a 12 ft foamball which rolled through the second reef right at daybreak and it got a little bigger than that around midday and pretty much just out of control, heaving-warbly mushburgers with no shape. It started going onshore about 10am and got worse and worse until I left the contest at 3:30 because it was just such a mess. The guys are doing it tough out there in the Monster Pro today. Even if you know the wave and you rip you still have to get lucky today. Some of da boyz are getting through and others arent

Feb 5 Monday 9am
small already. only 1-2 ft, but the nice conditions actually make it sort of inviting after the last week. no Monster Pro today.

Feb 4 Sunday sundown
early morning had a clean surface with disorganized surf. They held the Monster but Pipe was pretty junk with just kinda weird waves everywhere. It cleaned up a little throughout the morning but then got really junk strong straight onshore out of the SW by early afternoon so they had to end the contest early

Feb 3 Saturday 10:30 am
when I checked the surf around 8am I thought "sometimes I guess things have to get worse before they get better" when I checked it again around 10am it was just as bad, but seemed like it was coming up a little. some gromments were venturing out to that little left inside of the the inside reform at Kamies and i saw people walking on the road to go out to VLand but they were probably going to Freddies i guess. i think i'll stay in the office for another day

Feb 2 Friday 10:00am
couple guys out surfing Pipe this morning but they must have been tourists because it was terrible! not as windy now, but the mild winds are blowing straight onshore. its small though, only about 2-4 maybe 5 today

Feb 1 Thursday 8am
Forget about it. smaller today, 4-6 or something like that but so disorganized I cant really even tell the size nor did I stay long. I have never seen Pipe look like it did yesterday afternoon, just so winded, there were waves inside of waves inside of waves

Jan 31 Wed. 8am
doo doo kine. unridable at Pipe and Sunset. didnt bother checking the Bay but there is still some size, atleast 8-12 at Pipe.

Jan 30,2007 Tuesday 8am
crappy surf again. Pipe was too big and all over the place, but Waimea was on the small side and all over the place.I didn't watch the Bay for very long so there could have been some big sets but it just didnt have that look like it was real big. No one out anywhere when I was checking it, but I saw 2 guys running down to Waimea with their boards. Last night must have been really big. Sand went across the road by off the wall and came up almost to the contest poster in the park. The wind isn't strong today like yesterday but it just looks really stormy.

Jan 29,2007 Monday 8:30am
nobody out anywhere from Sunset to Waimea. It started out looking somewhat offshore with a big chop running through the wave at dawn, but 8:30am it was really choppy,stormy with close interval swell.Size was about 10-12 ft+ and growing.

Jan 28,2007 Sunday sundown
Surf started out a very junky 1-2 ft this morning and then rose throughout the day and was about 6-8 ft this evening with a little bit of a glass off. Still really crumbly and messy, but atleast the faces were clean and the swell was actually looking more organized than it has. I could see some outer reef type indicators breaking by Sunset from Pipe. The SW wind is forecasted to pick up overnight, but tonight had that little glass off so some hope for the morning

Jan 27,2007 Saturday a:30am
Monster Pipeline Pro is on today in 3-5 ft surf with an occ 6 ft set. perfect conditions with both lefts and rights, just a lot of dissapointments on size, however the wind conditions ahead are looking so bad they had to run today.

Jan 26,2007 Friday 8am
really small this morning 1-2 ft and not really fun small waves either, not at Pipe. junk. buoys are up a little, but nothing here yet

Jan 25,2007 Thursday
Swell dropped to 1-3 occ 4 or 5 ft this morning. It was clean and beautiful and small but fun.

Jan 24, 2007 Wednesday
Pipe started out with a slight onshore wind this morning and waves all over the place. It started getting a more trade wind type flow mid morning with clean faces but was still washy and weird. By midday it turned onshore again, this time with a variable type wind which was kinda mushing out the waves. By 3:30 when the buoys had already dropped to 9-13 and then 7-11, the last big sets were gone and it was about 6-8 but real crumbly and hardly any barrells.

Jan 23, Tues. late afternoon
Caldwell was pretty on target with this one. It rose rapidly mid morning just as predicted and was out of control at Pipe looking like the biggest swell yet. I was actually able to drive to the Bay without too much traffic for once, but just did a drive by and it looked kinda fun kine size there with a couple sneaker bombs, but still real ragged, bumpy-choppy stuff. choke guys out. The winds seemed to be kinda switching more offshore, but the surf still looked pretty stormy. hard to tell the size really, but the buoys are registering 17 ft so im going with that. hard to tell the direction. there seemed to be some really west sets, but then occasionally a north one too

Jan 23,Tues 8am
There was no wind this morning when I woke up but it started pouring rain and then the north winds kicked in right before sun up. The waves were small. Only about 2-5 and then it started coming prety quickly and more stormier with every few minutes. A few boogies paddled out early, but I think they all came in already

Jan 22 Monday
Early morning was really clean in the 1-3 ft range again with some occ 4 ft sets. At 3pm I checked it and it still wasnt really coming in but there were a couple bigger sets like 5 ft solid, but junk winds and weird direction of swell was making nearly ever wave a close out

Jan 21, 2007 Sunday
surf dropped today in the 1-3 ft range with an little pulse of 4 ft set waves about every 30-45 minutes. early am was really really glassy, no wind with light onshore midday and then another glass off in the evening. Mason Ho won the Hard Rock Jr Pro at Sunset

Jan 20,2007 Saturday
surf jumped up into the 5 ft range last night and stayed throughout the early morning and then dropped to about 2-3 midday with some occasional pulses of bigger surf. decent condtions in the morning with a very full high tide and then light seabreezes midday

Jan 18, 2007 Thursday 9am
surf is a little bigger than last night but the buoys are dropping. I give it 3-5 ft. There could have been a couple bigger ones. Kinda bumpy sloppy and not really doin it this morning though. Wind kinda running through it creating a little big of a warble. A couple guys said Jockos was looking good and was nice yesterday too

Jan 17,2007 Wednesday
The surf dropped to about 1-2 occ 3 by this morning but was back up into the 4 ft range by evening out of the NW. Joaquin's service last night was beautiful. The sun shined certainly shined on him, his family and some quality people. It reminded me that one of the most important things about surfing are the people we share it with.

Jan 15,2007 Monday Martin Luther King Jr Day
surf dropped today and is in the 2-4 ft range. Pipe is still mixed up and a bit bumpy. Rockys is said to be the spot right now.Joaquin's body was not found, but they called off the search yesterday. A paddle out memorial service will be held for him tomorrow Tuesday 4pm at Pipe.

Jan 14, 2007 Sunday,
Surf dropped to about the 3-5 occ 6 ft range today but was pretty mixed up at Pipe with a north and west swell mix. A lot of work without much reward. Jeff Hubbard won the Mens Rockstar Bodyboarding Pipeline Pro yesteray and Danielle Freitas won the women;s division. The surf was about 4-6 occ 8 on Saturday and up to 8-12 ft for the other two days of competition.

Jan 13, 2007 Saturday
Joaquin Velilla was lost at sea on Thursday night at 12 ft Pipe when he went out for a late surf after the contest and never returned home. If you surf Pipe, you know Joaquin, he was a great surfer, experienced big wave rider and true Pipe soldier. If you are a girl, you probably know his girlfriend Mariella who is a highly reguarded and respected women surfer on Oahu. Both moved over from Puerto Rico years ago. The body has still not been found. Please pray for Mariella and both familys.

Jan 12,20079:30am
still unsure who went missing at Pipe last night, but my heart is sure sad when i see those helicopters flying around all morning looking for him. The waves seemed to have peaked last night as it was a tad smaller and a little more north this morning. (even though the National Weather service is calling for it to peak this evening into tomorrow morning so maybe another pulse but buoys are staying the same for now) Men are up for the bodyboarding event today, they are scoring big time man, a little closing out for the surfers because of the sandbar that is built up from the north swell but they are probably going to use it for those big manuvers. Should finish tomorrow

Jan 11,2007 sundown
wow. surf started out in about the 2-4 ft range early mostly out of the north and grew to 10 ft by midday reaching 12 ft guys surfing second and third reef Pipe. most of the day sucked it was big and barely riddable Pipe closing out all over the place but turned on by the evening. for most of the day the women bodyboarders surfed in what was probably the most exciting womens sports event ive ever seen. I am not sure who won but it was probably between Kirra and Leila for 1st and second in the final who were charging huge bombs and taking some nuts beatings all day. Leila surfed with and injury after the first round and could barely even walk but still charged. super exciting. tomorrow the mens rounds should go.

Jan 10,2007 Wednesday
3-5 ft out of the NNE today. No Pipe this morning just the end of backdoor "off the door" in a big current so no bodyboarding contest. Gums looked like there were some fun ones. Lanis was okay but not spectacular.

Jan 9,2007 Tuesday
Pipe was about 3-5 ft this morning but with too much north in the swell. clean conditions but not that good. This afternoon picked up another foot but looked too west- too north for most spots and kindof just a mess. No bodyboarding contest today but they are all out practicing!

Jan 8,2007 Monday
early this morning still had some 4 ft sets but the surf dropped throughout the day contrary to Surf Reports which were saying 6-8 and rising and a 14-13 buoy reading? A thunderstorm hit around 3pm, but the winds were still offshore. The swell still had a lot of north in it today. The water smelled kinda nasty this morning but was a lot cleaner by the afternoon

Jan 7, 2007 Sunday sundown
the morning started out looking so weird I couldnt tell wether the swell was northeast or NW. noone paddled out to Pipe in the early hours and just a few guys to the sandbar. it looked pretty diorganized at the park with some larger sets by off the wall, but still looked pretty small everywhere else. I checked again around 10am and pipe was riddable and so i paddled out for about an hour with 30 boogie boarders and then it started turning to total doodoo again with a strong north swing and a total shutdown section on the sandbar. it flooded right before dark

Jan 6,2007 Saturday sundown
no real waves at Pipe today. some point break style backdoors. all on the north. Lanis was decent 1-3 and everyone was saying Pupukea was "the spot" with a few solid sets here and there, 5 ft. No sign of the new swell before dark.

Jan 5,2007 8:05am
it still feels like a hurricane the wind is so strong out there right now so i am taking a vacation from Pipeline today and catching up in the office. i can see on my quad cam that Lanis is probably your best bet for size and conditions. there are two guys out at backdoor, but it looks 1-3 ft and terrible

Jan 4,2007 Thursday
windy gusty ENE trades with about 4-6 ft of swell which is all over the place. Pipe is pretty junk with a lot of north in it today and a lot of chop.

Jan 3, 2007 Wednesday midday
Randall Paulson photo by Sean Davey- this whole thing closed out on him-yikes!

Jan 3,2007 Wednesday 2pm
Waves started out with a NE wind and just really bumpy lumpy in the 8-12 ft range, started cleaning up by 9 but was still pretty treachurous. Guys were catching 2nd reefers and just getting basically blown off the wave. The current was really strong and the sets really close together making it really hard to get out at times

Jan 2,2007 Tuesday 11am
Pipe started out a perfect 8-12 ft and then rose to 15 ft by midday. Not too many guys out due to the rising swells which was making it disorganized and all over the place, but still there were some killer rides from the second and third reef. By midday it looked out of control and most of the guys were coming in

New Years sundown
Waves rose in the evening to solid 6 ft with a few 8 footers and it was looking pretty west and pretty clean.

Jan 1,2007 Happy New Year
3-5 with some 6 foot sets this morning at Pipe, pretty chunky right over the reef, but a couple sick pits too. A little bit of wind on it this morning, but the faces are still clean

tch was canceled but marine warnings were still up for strong and unusual currents. I surfed until 7am and got in just before civil defense showed up with there loudspeakers telling surfers to stay out of the water from 7-9am. Rumor has it there were two waves that surged in around 8am that were about 2 ft, but the water actually receeded and then the waves were just all white water. Kauai was said to have had an 8 ft sunami surge. The waves came up a little from yesterday, there was an occasional 3 ft set out of the NNW. They held the first round of women at Haleiwa for the Triple Crown.

Surf Auction 2009

yep this really says it all about surf season 2009

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