Surf Blog 2005

Online Record of Northshore Surf Winter 2005

Waimea Bay 15-18 ft today with 20 ft sets on the outer reefs. Clean conditions this morning. Tow ins are going on at Phantoms. Pipe and Sunset unridable.
Dec. 29,2005
Surf was clean and more organized than it has been today. 6-8 ft in the morning out of the WNW rising to about 10 ft midday and solid 12-15 by sundown. Pipe was pretty epic in the morning and right before dark it was breaking on the 2nd and 3rd reefs about as big as it gets, not really barreling but just huge drops and long rides all the way from the outer reef through the sandbar.

Dec 29,2005 Thursday
Some solid 8 footers were still coming in early this morning right as the sun came up, but by 7:30 the swell dropped back to about 4-6 ft and then even a little smaller by evening. Perfect wind conditions again this morning with some SW sea breezes this afternoon. The women and boys were ripping it up down at the Haleiwa International today in 2-4 ft surf with an occasional set. New WNW swell on tap for tomorrow.

Dec. 28,2005 Monday
Still solid 8-10 ft+ today at Pipe, but yesterday around midday was definitely the best time. Perfect SE winds, but very disorganized line ups everywhere. Sunset still not really doing it at all, just looks like a mess. Several different swell directions are making for confused breakers. Haleiwa International is on and it is about 6-8 ft there.

Dec 27,2005 Tues
This morning had perfect wind at Pipe, but seemed to have about 5 different swell directions causing the waves to kinda break all over the place causing lots of warbles and lumps in the wave. The biggest waves actually seemed to be coming into gums sometimes foaming and just washing through until about 11am when the north direction in the swell backed down and the west began taking more prominence delivering a few killer waves for those who could find inbetween the wild conditions. The early morning consisted of mainly bodyboarders and just about 2 stand up surfers but by evening there was a good pack of guys on it. Sunset never really got going all day and just looked like a big current. The Haleiwa International was also held today so they probably had some pretty good waves down that side with a little more bump from wind conditions Waimea downward. Trades kicked in pretty solid by the evening just whipping through the waves at about 15-25 mph but SE winds are expected tomorrow..

Boxing Day 2005 Dec. 26
Pipe and Sunset closed out today with the hot spots being Waimea Phantoms and tow ins. The Bay was so so with some solid 15 ft+ sets early am which dropped throughout the day. The west swell had a lot of water and current moving around the bay with slight on shore conditions all day. Early morning had a northerly onshore breeze chopping up the surface with clean faces and the afternoon gained a light SW onshore wind. Much like the other recent swells, it has been a stormy close together type swell so not so perfect, but this was definitely one of the biggest swells we have seen yet.

Dec 25,2005 Saturday Christmas
Mele Kalikimaka or Merry Christmas surfer heads!!!!! It was a messy disorganized 5-7 ft this morning at Pipe with the swell way too north, but I heard Sunset looked pretty fun. Around 2pm the buoys rose to 9-24 and the swell began to rise to a very warbly mixed up 10 ft+ by evening. No telling what tomorrow holds. Highest buoy reading so far is 13-21 which is about 17 ft, not big enough for the Eddie, but it may continue rising throughout the night.

Dec 20,2005 Tues.
Another weird day on the Northshore. Surf dropped last night to about 10-12 ft and then came up again this morning. Pipe and Sunset looked like 15-18+ and disorganized, but the Bay only looked like about 10-12 with a few sets. The wind was had a northerly onshore bump this morning which changed to a a southwesterly bump this afternoon. I think their were a lot of different swell directions and really close intervals making the surf seem a little bit bigger than it was still a few people were getting a practice at the Bay, the Eddie might just be on the way.

Dec 19,2005 Monday
Victory at Sea Conditions again. Totally disorganized and too big at Pipe and Sunset. There were about 6guys out at Waimea this morning. I didn't see any huge ones, but there could have been a couple 15 fts, don't think it was much bigger than that. It was really ugly and disorganized as well. The wind seemed to be turning a little bit more towards trades, but as the gusts became a little stronger it was certain that it was a northerly trade wind

Dec 18,2005 Sunday
Strong onshore winds all day with surf rising throughout the day. Morning was about 4-6 ft and by the end of the day it was 10 ft+. More onshore conditions expected.

Dec 17,2005 Saturday
Most importantly today is Sean Davey's B-day!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The Pipe Masters finished up today in 3-6 foot surf which had clean conditions until around midday just before they held the final when the winds turned SW(onshore). Now it is totally onshore and trashed, expected to stay like that for a few days I guess. Andy Irons won the Pipemasters and the Triple Crown today with runner up Mick Fanning. Kalani Chapman "Represented" for all Da Boyz today making it all the way through to the final and placing 3rd alongside 3 regular footers at Backdoor. Favorites Jamie O' Brien and Pancho Sullivan dipped out in the quarterfinals due to the shifty, warbly and sometimes nonexsistent waves in their heats which were very unpredictable. Sunny Garcia made the semi finals and is celebrating his retirement tonight at the Hard Rock Cafe.

December 14,2005 Wednesday
Surf rose to 3 ft this morning with a couple bigger sets. The swell started out with some west and then turned more and more north as the day went on. No contest today. Off the wall was probably the top spot for the day, but there were just a few good ones inbetween close outs.

Dec 13, 2005 Monday
No Contest today. Surf is only about 1-2 ft this morning and pretty junk. Strong trades and its a bit chilly. Buoys started coming up at 6:50am so there might be somethigng by this evening. Last night we attended the Canon's business seminar hosted by photographer Mike Grecco which was very informative. He is on again tonight and it will be really good for all you Canon photographers out there.

Dec 10, 2005 Friday
3-5 ft NW- NNW swell, gusty trades. They are having the contest today, but its pretty boring. There are not many backdoor waves and even the 5 ft sets that come in every once in a while at Pipe are just mostlyclose outs. hmmm.... not the kind of waves that should qualify anyone as a Pipe Master, so I hope our guys get through.

December 9, 2005 Friday
8-10 ft surf pulsed in today which was a little smaller than forecasts had predicted. The Rip Curl Pipeline Pro kicked off the trails heats today. Early morning was pretty ugly everywhere especially at Pipe where the sandbar and the north direction of the swell was causing pretty much every wave to close out. Surf did clean up throughout the day, but most surfers who made it through their heats favored the smaller inside corner waves which were more makeable. Around midday a few bigger sets came in feathering on the outer reefs, but they were pretty much either unridable or just not makeable. Though contest directors are always claiming its epic, best day ever and all that BS, you should know it was probably one of the worst big Pipe days we've had this year. Thats not to say that the guys weren't killing it out there because there were some 10s given out and several other rides which were absolutely amazing. Kalani Chapman scored a 10 point ride today and dominated in the semi finals of the trails making it through to the main event along with Makua Rothman, Bruno Santos and Dustin Barca. Both Sunset and Pipe were looking cleaner and better by this afternoon.

Dec 7,2005 Wednesday
Tiny surf prevailed throughout the day today. Fun waves for longboarders or menehunes at the Ehukai sandbar. An unbelieveable service was held today for Malik at Ehukai. It seemed like everyone on the Northshore was there which is a lot of people right now. The family spoke a few words along with a couple friends and then there was a huge paddle out outside Eukai by the lifeguard tower right where Malik was found and brought to the beach. A huge circle was formed while my very own husband dropped a seemlessly ending trail of flowers from a helicopter to the surfers which actually sparkelled like tinsle as they dropped down. Surfers hooted and then there was a moment of silence as if we were listening as Malik hooted back through the glistening flowers and the ocean. Some of the boys then started chanting some Tahitian words which the circle then repeated as people let go of their strings and their leis. There seemed to be a very strong bond between Hawaiians and Tahitians today, Malik's death seems to have put another link in a chain that has been building for sometime between these islands. It was a sad day, but a beautiful celebration of life for a young man who as they said showed us all how to "live life" Malik was, is and will always be very loved amongst us all.

Dec. 2,2005 Friday
This morning was somewhat sureal. 6-8 perfect pipe with the sun gleaming above and no wind whatsoever. Its the kind of days we live and long for here in Hawaii. Pipe Soldiers all made their way out to the line up today with a sparkle in their eyes, but the line up was choked by about 7:30 with about 75 guys and just two moving peaks. The swell pulsed and then started to drop back as a NNE swell began filling in around 10:00. The mix of directions + the grinding sandbar in front of the reef made for some warbly thick wedges on the left which were causing a lot of wipe outs while the rights were maxing out and makeable, just about as good as it gets. It seemed to be just another wipe out when Malik Joyeux took off and free fell on a deep left, but just when the lip hit him his board bounced back with the lip hitting him in the head. Suddenly someone noticed he had not come up and half the line up along with some of the guys on the beach headed out to the Ehukai sandbar in search of his body. With the current ripping across the sandbar and no sign of Malik we all knew things were looking pretty dire even though everyone was doing the best they could to save him. Unfortunately, when he was found right past the lifeguard tower it was too late. A circle was then formed on the beach for a moment of prayer. It was a good day gone bad, even the weather slowly began to change. The clouds came, the wind started going onshore and the waves at Pipeline became too north and disorganized looking nothing like it did in the morning. The community mourns Malik today and forever. Malik was a 25 year old Tahitian man who was known for riding one of the biggest waves ever at his homebreak Teaupoo. There is a strong mana between all Pacific Islanders and you can feel the pressence of sadness that looms here tonight.
Bon Voyage Malik.

Malik giving Shaka while Tow surfing Teaupoo. Malik Joyeux Dec 2,2005 RIP

Dec 6, 2005 Tues.
massive drop in swell today. From 15 ft yesterday to 5 ft on the sets. Still, the contest was on at Sunset and Jake Patterson took the Oneill World Cup of Surfing. Slight surface chop and confused breakers were making the 3-5 ft waves pretty average after all the good surf we have had. The Pipeline Masters celebrated 35 years of the event tonight honoring past Pipe champions.There is a ceremony for Malik tomorrow at 3:00pm at Pipeline.

Dec 5, 2005 Monday
10-12 ft+ storm surf prevails today and the Oneill World Cup is a go. Noone is out at Pipe due to the NNW swell and slightly onshore winds. There are a few people at the Bay, kinda like outside Pinballs when I saw it first thing this morning. Clean faces and a few fun ones.

Women's Historic Pipeline Contest Event Gallery March 11&12 2005!!!!!!!!!!!!

January 25,2005 Saturday Pipeline 10-12 feet Marcus Hickman

Jon Mozo R.I.P. February 9,2005
Hi everyone
It is with great sadness and a heavy heart that I relay the news to you of the passing of one of our brothers; Jon Mozo. Jon was taken from us yesterday at Pipeline, apparently suffering massive head injuries while shooting water shots at Pipeline and Backdoor. Jon was a friend of mine and a good man. He really loved photographing the ocean and it showed in his work. He was also a family man, leaving behind his wife and 4 young children. Just hours before, he told me of his upcoming trip to New Zealand and I recommended a bunch of places for him to check out. It's hard to believe that he is gone now. Losing a friend or loved one is always tough, but even more so when it's one of our brothers. Spare a thought for Jon as you go about your day and please stay safe.